JUST DESSERTS: Let us now praise not-yet-famous pie

By Jack Hill

LITTLE ROCK — When you're talking pies, it's hard to beat those family cafes with the handed-down recipes, even if they're slightly at a disadvantage in being open only at lunch.

"Oh, well," as Fleetwood Mac once sang, in one of my favorite all-around useful musical quotations.

Those who do eat lunch in downtown Little Rock have been fortunate since January to have a new option, albeit a somewhat hidden one. Those who drive east on Seventh Street, across Main Street, might spot the large board outside listing daily specials at Timmons. But if there's a gaggle of pedestrians nearby, the sign will likely be obstructed from view.

And there are no windows to alert a hungry person to the presence of food within. You must enter the Donaghey Building's lobby to gain access to Timmons. Butit's well worth taking the plunge into what is a historic structure anyway, probably Little Rock's first skyscraper, or at least the town's first tall office building.

As a self-styled expert - or maybe I should just say "fan" - of Key lime pie, I must now praise what should be a famous Key lime pie, as made by the Timmons' pie lady, Jan Duff.

This Key lime pie is a work of art, from its whipped-cream top through its tangy yellow filling to its crunchy crust. It has just the right tint of tartness so that you know you're having a superb citrus treat. It's so tastyI find myself deliberately slowing down the process of eating dessert, so as to prolong the pleasure.

And unlike those chain restaurants that stick it to you, commanding $4.95 or more for a dessert, the Timmons folks price their desserts at $2 a slice.

Other pies that Duff tends to always have are lemon supreme, coconut, peanut butter cup and chocolate. She also at times comes up with sweet potato and strawberry swirl pies.

Whole take-out pies ($12) can be arranged, so that office workers can treat their families who perhaps seldom venture downtown.

The cafe is open Monday through Friday. Plate lunches are served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., with the grill remaining open until 4 p.m.

Timmons Lunch Cafe & Take Out, Donaghey Building lobby, Seventh and Main streets, Little Rock (501) 378-7799.

Dining Out, Pages 69 on 08/03/2007