LITTLE ROCK — Ristorante Capeo was Argenta when Argenta wasn't cool.
In fact, the fine Italian restaurant, thriving four years after its June 2003 opening, is a big part of the reason why North Little Rock's formerly dead downtown has become cool. Capeo owners Eric (chef) and Brian (partner) Isaac were Argenta pioneers, and the brothers continue to be, with a new restaurant, Argenta Seafood Co., expected to open next month just down Main Street.
If we didn't know Capeo's ownership had another major project in the works, we never would have been able to tell: Excellent food and strict attention to detail were consistent during a series of recent visits. The restaurant is still serving some of the best cuisine North Little Rock has to offer.
Ristorante Capeo is not a cheap date or a low-calorie one. At least it probably shouldn't be. Diners could certainly opt out of all extravagance by ordering Chicken Picatta (one of the two least expensive entrees, priced at $18.95) with the sauce on the side, and a glass of ice water. But they wouldn't be truly experiencing the restaurant. Capeo is the kind of place where people should indulge now and pay for later, in whatever necessary treadmill sweat and finance charges.
The coy and cozy corner eatery still draws little attention to itself, with its gray exterior paint, awnings and windows painted with grapes as its only street signs. But it doesn't have to, as Capeo is no longer the secret it once was. It's still easy to find a close parking space, but it's not always easy to get seated, at least during prime hours (going really early is an option) on Friday and Saturday evenings, without a reservation. The restaurant doesn't take on more than it can handle and tables don't turn over quickly.
Which side of restaurant diners are seated on can make a huge difference in ambience. The northern room is much brighter, and because it features the open kitchen and the bar, it's much more lively. The southern room is darker, more subdued and romantic; there's even one small heart-shaped table. Windows in both rooms give diners a street view, and gold walls with exposed brick and whitetablecloths give the restaurant an elegant warmth. The unpadded wooden chairs aren't the most comfortable seats, especially after a couple of hours.
Dress is casual, arguably too casual in some instances. In a restaurant serving dishes priced as high as $39.95, one doesn't necessarily expect to see a camouflage camisoles, shorts and sneakers. But Capeo is as welcoming to shaggy, chic bargoers as it is swank specialoccasioners.
Servers can be personable or quiet, but they're always professional. Pacing is usually fluid but can get choppy when the restaurant is really hopping.
The wine cellar holds 1,000 bottles. Wines by the glass are $5.50-$12; bottles are $17-$275 (full list on restaurant's Web site). Those who bring their own wine pay a $17 corkage fee.
The Northern Italian menu features antipasti (appetizers), contorni (side dishes, like salads), primi piatti (first plates, like pasta), secondi piatti (second plates, or entrees) and dolce (desserts).
All those items can be ordered individually, but we find that the best way to try a little of everything is The Capeo Dinner. Each member of a party pays $50-$55 to participate in a shared seven-course meal (each person receives half portions of two appetizers, a salad or soup, a pasta, two entrees - typically one meat, one fish- and dessert). The table can decide which items they'd like to order, or they can discuss their food preferences with their server and let the chef surprise them.
Heftier meat choices like Beef Tenderloin ($37.95 as a solo entree) or Osso Buco Milanese ($39.95) involve a higher Capeo Dinner price tag than simpler dishes like Chicken Marsala ($18.95) and a Pork Chop ($23.95).
We enjoyed several savory starters. The Fried Fish (8.95), featured a good amount of tender calamari, a couple of scallops and one shrimp with its seemly saltiness cut by the tang of balsamic vinegar and lemon wedges.
The Stuffed Eggplant ($5.95), two mini cigars of rolled sliced eggplant filled with a lush goat cheese and topped with tomato sauce, was big on flavor if not in size. Balsamic vinegar and parmesan shavings accented the perfectly cooked Grilled Meatballs ($5.95), of pork andchicken served on dandelion greens. While it's not the best time of year for tomatoes, we were pleased with the red slices, layered with heavenly fresh mozzarella, olive oil and basil in the Mozzarella Caprese ($6.95).
As for the contorni, it'stempting to order something exotic like Fried Sage Leaves (7.95) served with tomato sauce, or something creamy like the Tomato and Gorgonzola Soup ($5.95), but diners can't go wrong with a lively, not-too-filling House Salad ($5.95), mixed greens with tomato, artichoke, onion, olives, peppers and toasted pine nuts dressed with a sweet-tart vinaigrette.
Sumptuous pasta courses are a worthy splurge. Spice seekers will appreciate the Penne al Arabiatta ($6.95), pasta joined by a zesty tomato/red pepper sauce and parmesan. And while the classic Lasagna ($8.95) one member of our party wanted may not sound as fascinating as, say, the Pesto Alla Capeo ($8.95) with chestnut pasta, pesto, broccoli and potatoes (Capeo Dinner sharing calls for compromising),the harmonious dish of pasta, meat sauce and cheese had a creamy, melt-in-the-mouth consistency we're not sure we've experienced anywhere else.
Those with lighter appetites might try the Baked Halibut ($23.95) entree. The mild fish was enhanced by a seafoodbroth, tomatoes, olives and artichoke hearts.
Does a proud, juicy Beef Tenderloin really need a thick coat of goat cheese and grilled mushrooms on it? No. But just roll with the decadence and be glad.
While we liked the Chicken Marsala's tongue-tingling sauce made with marsala wine, white wine and balsamic vinegar, the poultry was on the dry side.
On a server's recommendation, we sampled something new to us, Elk ($39.95), an evening special. The very lean chop of New Zealand farm-raised elk, pepper encrusted and served with a brandy cream sauce and vegetables, was robust and rich.
Meals are served with a basket of crusty bread, as well as a packet of grissini (breadsticks) perched on every table.
Capeo's desserts (all cost $6) include Italian specialties like Panna Cotta and Tiramisu. But we were tempted by the White Chocolate Creme Brulee with a delicate sugar crust, and an impossibly rich Hazelnut Mousse, served in a martini glass.
Ristorante Capeo Address: 425 Main St., North Little Rock Hours: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday Cuisine: Italian Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V Alcoholic beverages: Full bar Reservations: Yes Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes (501) 376-3463 www.capeo.us
Weekend, Pages 69 on 10/26/2007