RESTAURANT: Distinctive Sushi Cafe on a roll in Heights

The Heights' Sushi Cafe has been open only about four weeks, and already Little Rock's newest sushi restaurant is no longer Little Rock's newest sushi restaurant.

(Choo-Choo Steam Super Sandwich Sushi Bar stole the title when it opened downtown this week, joining 10 Japanese restaurants in the capital city that specialize in sushi.)

But Sushi Cafe is still the city's newest Asian-fusion eatery, its name not quite doing the expansive menu - that goes way beyond the expected raw fish on rice - justice. Not only do entrees include everything from a New York strip steak ($24) to Grilled Rack of Lamb ($24), there's even a Tokyo Cowboy Burger ($9). And people not only order it, they enjoy it. We would have asked the gentleman next to us at the sushi bar if the hefty Black Angus burger was as good as it looked, but he inhaled it so quickly we didn't have to.

The restaurant is co-owned by Lulu Chi (who also owns Sekisui and two of the three Chi's restaurants and who formerly owned Koto, the city's only other Asian-fusion restaurant, as well as North Little Rock's Crazy Hibachi) and Robert Tju, who also serves as general manager as well as the namesake for items like Rob's Calamari.

With warm gold walls and art glass light fixtures - and without the usual Asian kimonos, fans and paper lanterns - the modern eatery looks like it could serve any kind of contemporary cuisine. Only a few decorative touches - like a wall picture of sushi and bamboo in the entrance - hint at the kind of food being served.

If the stylish corner space has one drawback, it's that it's small, although the snugness creates a cozy, neighborly feel. With only a few booths, a sushi bar that seats about a dozen people and a few tables with half-banquette seating, the restaurant - the first of its kind on Kavanaugh - already feels to have outgrown itself. We managed to snag seats the three times we dined at the restaurant, but the place was quick to fill and there were usually several people waiting for tables around the entrance's four-stool bar.

Service is professional and polite. Timing can be inconsistent when the restaurant is busy - the other member of our twosome received not only his salad before I did but his entree too.

For starters, there are appetizers like edamame ($3), a steaming salted portion of soybeans, a soothing miso soup with seaweed and scallions ($3) and various dumplings ($5). Salads ($4-$9) can be simple, like the agreeably chewy, sesame seed-studded Seaweed Salad ($6) or fancy like the Seared Ahi Tuna Salad ($8). The House Salad ($4) is more lively than most, combining mixed greens, a zesty and almost creamy ginger dressing and a wealth of crunchy noodles.

Moderately priced Cafe Specialties ($6-$12) can be appetizers or meals. They range from Shrimp Tempura ($7) to a Grilled Red Snapper Taco ($7) to the light-tasting translucent Summer Rolls ($6) of rice paper, rice noodles, vegetables, chicken and shrimp, served with peanut sauce and chopped nuts.

Artistically prepared and plated sushi ($3-$12) and sashimi ($9-$22) can serve as starters or full dinners. (Or they can serve as lunch ... the sushi bar is open in the afternoon. Bento Boxes that join a teriyaki, katsu or tempura entree with rice, pot sticker, egg roll, vegetable tempura, crab wonton and California rolls or sushi combinations are available for $7-$12.)

While the restaurant offers all the traditional nigiri and rolls, it's the unique specialty rolls that stand out. Like the Hawaiian ($11), a sweet bit of fried coconut shrimp and smear of cream cheese rolled in rice, topped with slices of mango and served with a tropical sauce.

We loved the Tuna Lovers roll ($10), a traditional spicy tuna roll not only upgraded but tempered by slices of cool tuna. The no-rice Naruto rolls ($8-$12), that can be made with crab stick, salmon, tuna or yellowtail wrapped in cucumber, had a fresh look and taste.

The Lobster Roll ($8) was not as memorable. Described as featuring a "crunchy lobster mix," the result was mushy and not particularly flavorful.

Sushi Cafe's prettily presented Big Plate Entrees are for those wanting something more hearty and hot.

The Sake Mussels ($16) were served lounging in a gentle pool of sake, ginger, garlic, scallions and broth that accented the shellfish without overpowering it. The Chilean Sea Bass ($22) was another success, with a proud piece of miso-marinated fish perched on a pile of pleasantly salty soba noodles.

The chicken in the Kushiyaki Chicken & Shrimp kebabs ($17), threaded with red pepper, onion and mushroom, was a bit dry but the sweet teriyaki sauce helped, as did a tasty pile of fried rice.

The 8-ounce American Kobe Beef Top Sirloin ($40) was rich and tender. It ought to be, as one of the city's more expensive steaks. It was served with grilled asparagus and a potato croquette.

On only one occasion did we have the stamina to try one of the restaurant's four desserts (although we must return to sample the Fried Ice Cream Cake, $6). The Green Tea Ice Cream ($3) was the greenest we've ever seen, its strong flavor balanced with sweetness.

Sushi Cafe Address: 5823 Kavanaugh Blvd., Little Rock Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-9:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday Cuisine: Asian-fusion Credit cards: AE, D, DC, V, MC, Alcoholic beverages: Full bar Reservations: No Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes (501) 663-9888

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