WOLFGANG PUCK'S KITCHEN: Grilled cheese for kids, grownups

— Children of every age love grilled-cheese sandwiches. My little boys are happy eaters when I prepare these easy treats. So are my two teenagers; in fact,my oldest son, who's at college, cooks them in his dorm when he doesn't like what the dining hall is serving.

Before you imagine him heating a skillet on ahotplate on his desk, I have to add that what he's really making are actually panini, using a safe countertop double-sided electric panini maker.

Panini (the word means "little breads") are, in fact, nothing more than Italian-style grilled cheese sandwiches. What's the difference? Not much, really. But the small details open up a wealth of creative possibilities.

My friends tell me that their parents made grilled-cheese sandwiches by pan-frying white bread and American cheese in melted butter. For an extra-crispy sandwich, they'd press down hard with the spatula, which flattened the bread, increasing its crunchy brown surface.

A panini maker does that for you, since its heavy heated top portion squashes and seals the sandwich. And the Italians have devoted centuries of culinary creativity to making panini delightfully varied.

First, there's the bread. You can make panini with a rustic white Italian loaf or sourdough, sliced square ciabatta rolls, or pieces of seasoned flatbread called focaccia. Or use wholewheat or multigrain bread.

Next comes the filling. Good melting cheeses help seal panini, and you have a world of choices, from American to Italian mozzarella. For extra flavor, add some crumbly cheeses such as Parmesan or feta.

I also love to add thin slices of meats and vegetables. Prosciutto, shaved ham, and crispy bacon are great. Slivers of onion, roasted chilies, sliced tomatoes,or sun-dried tomatoes add their own personalities. So do fresh herbs like basil or chives, and condiments such as mustard.

The results will be indescribably delicious, yet comfortingly reminiscent of your childhood. After all, it's really just a grilledcheese sandwich!

SMOKED GOUDA AND PROSCIUTTO PANINIMakes 1 sandwich; 1 main-course serving or 4 appetizer servings 2 slices good-quality sourdough bread, each about 1 inch thick 2 tablespoons good-quality prepared mayonnaise, extra-virgin olive oil, or unsalted butter 2 ounces thinly sliced smoked Gouda cheese 2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto or cooked ham 2 tablespoons very thinly sliced red onion 2 thin slices ripe Roma (plum) tomato 1 ounce shredded Fontina cheese

Preheat a panini maker, a doublesided electric countertop grill, or a grill pan or heavy skillet.

Meanwhile, brush both sides of each slice of bread with the mayonnaise, olive oil, or butter. On one of the slices, assemble the sandwich filling in even layers: first the smoked Gouda cheese, then the prosciutto, followed by the onions, tomato slices, Fontina, and the second bread slice.

Place the sandwich in the panini maker, double-sided grill, grill pan, or skillet. Close the panini maker or doublesided grill, or place another heavy pan on top of the sandwich to press it down in the pan or skillet. (Make sure the bottom of your heavy pan is clean!)

Cook until the sandwich is crisp and deep golden brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes total cooking time in a panini maker or doubled-sided grill. If you're cooking the sandwich in a pan on the stovetop, after 3 to 4 minutes carefully lift off the top pan and use a spatula to flip over the sandwich to crisp the other side. (Be aware that stovetop cooking will take about twice as long.)

Transfer the sandwich to a cutting board. If serving the sandwich as a main course, cut it diagonally in half with a sharp knife and transfer to a serving plate and serve immediately; if serving it as an appetizer, cut each half crosswise to make a total of 4 small triangular pieces and transfer to a platter kept warm in a 200 degrees F. oven while you make more.

River Valley Ozark, Pages 64 on 09/04/2008

Upcoming Events