Soup on the mountain

Culinary classes offer chance to cook with top chef

By Jeannie Stone

LITTLE ROCK — It's cold on top of Petit Jean Mountain in Januar y. For two dozen adventurous souls, however, the classroom where they huddle in twos and threes around butane burners is charged with creative energy and warmed with bubbling kettles.

Smells of chicken boiling with vegetables, onions caramelizing with honey and cinnamon and roasted butternut squash tickle the collective olfactory receptors. John Leonardis, a swashbuckling chef clad in white, orchestrates the activity from the kitchen nestled in the base of the theater.

This is the Second Saturday Chef's Series - the widely popular classes offered at Winthrop Rockefeller Institute. Julie Hall, program coordinator, said, "The reception to these classes have exceeded ourwildest expectations."

It's no wonder. The enthusiastic students spending a Saturday to play with their food are more than eager to share the reasons.

"It's just a lot of fun," Pam Gibson said. "It's just a great place, the scenery is just beautiful here and the people are great."

Her husband, Sam, agreed, "Our friends suggested this, and this makes our second class. We took the pasta class last year."

The Benton couple has enjoyed learning something together. "Sam has been a real good sport to come with me," Pam said. "He's had fun getting his hands in the dough."

Leonardis is equally fond of the arrangement. "I think the center here mimics the Culinary Institute of America where I studied," he said. "We had theaters for classes just like this. It's just a great design, and they have fabulous equipment."

That doesn't surprise Programs Associate Susan A lman. "This is exactly the type of venue that was intended in the original, grand design for the Rockefeller Institute," she said.

The idea for the Chef's Series hatched in the brain of a former executive chef, and is in its third season. Each series includes 12 classes and centers on a guest chef, but interested students may register for any number. That is, if there is room.

The current series concludes in August, but there are no class openings. "Oh, they fill up within the first month after we announce the classes," front desk representative Jessica McGhee said. She is the one who fields questions and signs up prospective students although students may register online as well.

"But we'll announce the upcoming series before then," Hall said. It sounds like she's gone down this proverbial path before. "And interested persons can get on the mailing list and will be notified if we decide to expand classes or add new ones."

On this frosty morning the class of the month is Soup's On, and although it doesn't feel rushed, the tempo is crisp as sheets of the roasted butternut shells are waiting to be transformed into Butternut Squash Soup, and six large pots of chicken broth sit on the back burners until time to create the Chicken and Dumplings. The smell alone charges up the class.

Leonardis conducts the preparations and the instruction with professional aplomb amidst clattering, chattering and questions. "The ingredients include Worcestershire, hot sauce and lemon juice," he informed the students. "I prefer cream in the broccoli soup. "The only other variation I'd even think of making to this recipe is adding cheese. White, yellow, it's up to you. Me? I'd use a mild, yellow cheddar."

"I think my gas went out," Shirley Walker said as she stirred her pot with a quizzical eye.

"I can't wait to eat this," her partner, Alice Walker, said.

The class is an eclectic mix of participants, some couples, some friends, some relatives and several who came alone w illing to share a but ane burner with a total stranger.

Conway resident Chad Wilson is new to cooking. He learned about the class from a woman he works with at Kimberly Clark in Maumelle. "I took two classes last year, and I kept bugging them about bringing it back. I signed up for the first five classes in a row, and now my wife is getting into it."

Deane Woodward of Magnolia, on the other hand, doesn't like to cook. " Youcook out of necessity when the kids were little," she said. "I was hoping this would inspire me."

Annette Enderlin, a Hot Spr ings opht ha lmolog ist, chimed in, "It booked up really early."

Enderlin had accompanied her husband to a conference a year ago last July and discovered the upcoming classes by chance. They returned a few months later for the pasta class, and as soon as this year's classes were announced signed up for two. "Now I wish I'd signed up for all of them," she said. "I just love soup, and I've picked up the best tips."

Leonardis couldn't agree more. "Soup represents the soul of cooking," he said. "Atleast that's how I see it, because nothing warms my soul like a good bowl of soup."

Leonardis has fond memories of feasting on his grandmother's vegetable soup during the cold winters of his youth spent in Maryland. "After a day of sledding, I would sit and eat four bowls of it with buttered rye bread. Now that warms your soul to the core," he said.

Culinar y talent runs in Leonardis' family. The Oyster Stew, named after his Aunt Kim, was a popular dish she served at her restaurant in Maryland. "T's Cove Seafood Restaurant was right on the water in St. Mary's County,and I have rich memories of playing in her kitchen," he said. "She was definitely an influence in developing my love for cooking," Leonardis said.

Playing on that common love for great cuisine and the desire to loosen up and play may be the secrets of the series' success.

Like Woodward, not all the students are knowledgeable in the kitchen or enjoy cooking, but they all came to learn.

Leonardis explains every step and Alman and two other assistants help keep the work areas clean and stocked.

Other dishes on the day's menu are Homemade Broth, Split Pea Soup and Shrimp Bisque. Yes, they are able to indulge with tastings, and, yes, they take home their culinary treasures.

That is a good thing for Wilson. His family expects him to replicate what he learns in class, so he looks forward to delivering the goods in style. "I guess I'm just a wannabe chef," he said with a laugh.

That's what Leonardis is aiming to achieve. "Cooking can be fun and therapeutic and a balm to a hungry soul," he said, "and anyone can cook up something good." His culinar y sk ills have been honed at some of the finest restaurants in the country, including Citronelle Restaurant in Washington, D.C., and three years as executive chef of Trattoria Monaco in Atlanta, Ga. He studied under worldrenowned chef Michel Richard and graduated at the top of his class from the Culinary Institute of America.

Leonardis lives in Little Rock and owns Gourmand-GuruGroup, a chef-on-call service. He also offers individual instruction and manages West Rock Wines and Spirits.

Private groups wishing to utilize the current classes and chefs may contact Hall to arrange special classes. "Hopefully, that will help those who are unable to attend whether due to work schedules or other conflicts like sold-out classes," she said.

The new series, to begin in the fall, will be announced inthe summer.

Woodward approaches the sink with her dirty pot and smiles. "You know, this is just plain fun," she said.

It doesn't look like too many cooks spoil the soup here.

For more information on upcoming classes at the Winthrop Rockefeller Institute, call (501) 727-5435 or visit the Web site at www.uawri.org.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP 1 large squash 4 tablespoons butter, melted 1 large onion 2 pints cream (optional) 3-5 cups vegetable broth 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 tablespoons honey Salt and pepper to taste

Trim the tips of the squash and cut in half.

Remove the seeds with a spoon.

Brush on the butter and season squash with salt and pepper.

Roast at 375 degrees for 20-30 minutes until the flesh of the squash is completely soft (make sure to monitor closely so no burning occurs).

In a large pot, sweat the onion in olive oil until soft and translucent.

Add cinnamon and honey to onions to caramelize.

Add peeled squash and vegetable broth.

Cook at a simmer for about 15 minutes.

Add cream if desired (if using cream, only add 3 cups of vegetable broth).

Puree the soup in a blender.

Adjust the seasoning if necessary and serve.

AUNT KIM'S OYSTER 'STEW' 1/2 stick unsalted butter 1 medium onion 1 jar oysters in juice 1 quart whole milk Salt and pepper Old Bay seasoning 1 small bay leaf Oyster crackers (optional)

Sweat the onions in butter until translucent.

Season onion lightly with Old Bay seasoning.

Add the oysters in their entirety and gently saute for about 2 minutes.

Add milk and bay leaf and cook until the oysters are tender (most likely when the milk is brought to a simmer).

Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper, and Old Bay seasoning.

Serve with oyster crackers.

Tri-Lakes, Pages 55, 57 on 01/29/2009