Whole Hog adds west LR pig-out place

By Jennifer Christman

Photo by Stephen B. Thornton

A six pack of sauces on tables allows diners customize their 'cue at the new Markham Street location of Whole Hog Cafe.

ADVERSTISMENT

LITTLE ROCK — Whole Hog Cafe is wholly taking over the barbecue landscape.

The award-winning Little Rock-based chain has expanded to include six out-of-state locations (two in Tennessee, two in New Mexico, one in Louisiana, one in Missouri). And now a second Little Rock location that opened in April joins eight other Whole Hogs in Arkansas.

Whole Hog Cafe-W Markham St,. LR

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The new one, sharing shopping center space with neighbors like Hobby Lobby and Blockbuster Video in Rock Creek Plaza, is similar to the others in its casual concept and look. And in its certain, seductive fragrance that tempts diners before they even open the door.

Customers order and pay at the counter, secure drinks and implements, then take a seat on cushioned metal chairs or in padded booths as they wait to hear their order numbers.

They shouldn't have to wait too long to pick up their food if a dine-in experience on a recent Saturday evening and a carryout experience on a Friday evening were standard. Our dine-in meal was ready in the couple of minutes it took to get our soda and iced tea (both $1.69;

bottled beer is $2.75-$3.25, draft beer is $2.50). Our carryout meal was secured in a shopping bag within the 10 minutes it took us to get there.

On the menu: Barbecue. And more barbecue. Whole Hog doesn't venture into areas like catfish and spaghetti as do some barbecue restaurants (such as nearby competitor Corky's Ribs & BBQ).

Diners choose meat (pulled pork or chicken, beef brisket, pork loin, sausage or ribs), what they'd like it served on (a plate, a salad, a regular or jumbo bun, nachos or a baked potato) and what they'd like with it (baked beans, potato salad, coleslaw, tossed salad, chips or a brownie).

Sandwiches are $4.19-$6.89. Plates,with two sides and a roll go from $6.39 for pulled pork up to $17.99 for a full slab of ribs. Sides are $1.29-$1.39.

Whole Hog does ribs ($6.99 four bones, $9.99 half slab, $17.99 full slab) just right. The spicedrubbed and lightly sauced rack we received was tender, meaty, nonfatty, salty, sweet, smoky perfection. We did have to ask for a forgotten side of decent baked beans. The tossed salad was a standard lettuce, red cabbage carrot mix with a packet of Hellmann's ranch salad dressing placed on top.

Barbecue salads ($5.39-$5.89) feature an entree-size bowl of the same vegetable mix, toppedwith meat. Ours featured a plentiful portion of savory smoked chicken. Instead of using the packaged salad dressing, we experimented with the six-pack of squeeze-bottled barbecue sauces on the table (there's also one additional sauce, the "Volcano," available only at the counter for safety's sake), combining the No. 4 (vinegar/spice) with the No. 6 (mustard/vinegar).

To take home, we ordered an easy, economical Buddy Pak No. 1, ($23.99) a pound of pulled pork (beef, sausage or chicken are other options) with buns, sauce and a quart of beans, coleslaw and potato salad designed to feed four people.

Perhaps the pulled pork lost a bit of moisture to the drive home and the reheating process becauseit was slightly dry, although it was nothing a bit of sauce (like the mild and sweet No. 1 with some spicy No. 3) couldn't remedy.

An advantage to Whole Hogging out at home is that one can decide to eat the sweet coleslaw on the sandwich or on the side (when dining in, it comes on the sandwich unless otherwise requested). Another plus to home eating: Diners can indulge in the plush sour-cream-based potato salad until they pass out.

Whole Hog Cafe Address: 12111 W. Markham St., Little Rock (other Arkansas locations in Little Rock, North Little Rock, Bentonville, Fayetteville, Conway, Fort Smith, Hot Springs, Jonesboro) Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday Credit cards: V, MC, AE, D Alcoholic beverages: Beer Reservations: No (other than large parties for private room) Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes (501) 907-6124, www.wholehogcafe.com.

Weekend, Pages 33, 40 on 07/02/2009