CHEAP EATS KFC's grilled chicken: Less grease, less taste

— KFC's new KGC is just OK.

Or in longhand: KFC, the fast-food chain named and known for frying its fowl recently introduced Kentucky Grilled Chicken. And it's fine. Nothing worth rioting over.

Not that the chicken inspired brawls - those Internet rumors were inflated. But frustration did result from a promotion with the Oprah show when restaurants ran out of chicken and couldn't deliver on free-meal Internet coupons due to demand.

"I just want to apologize to you," KFC President Roger Eaton tells customers in an accent that is definitely not the product of Kentucky (he's from South Africa and lived in Australia) via video on the company's Web site, before attempting to spin the public relations nightmare into the ultimate positive. "The response to our new Kentucky Grilled Chicken offer has been overwhelming! We've had lines out the door; everyone wants to get the great taste of our new product. So we can't redeem your free coupon at this time. We expected an enormous response but we never expected anything like this.

"Clearly America loves the great taste of Kentucky Grilled Chicken!"

Or America hadn't actually tried it yet and clearly just loves stuff for free. Either way, the chain is now offering to mail rainchecks - good for a meal and free drink - to those who send in their original coupons (for details, visit www.kfc.com/coupons/raincheck.asp ).

The question remains: Will people want the product when they must pay for it? After recently ordering a 10-piece grilled meal ($16.99) that came in a signature paper bin bragging "The Only Grilled Chicken That's Bucket Worthy!" with two large sides and four biscuits, we're not sure we will.

We had doubts before we had bites. Some pieces, particularly the three drumsticks (also included: two breasts, two wings, three thighs) looked somewhat small, sorry and singed. Under the thin, slightly peppery skin, the meat was an inconsistent mix of juicy and partially dry. Rather than satisfying hunger, it intensified it - for the oldschool, real-deal, greasy stuff.

We were more interested in the sides - the pleasing if probably too smooth to be unprocessed mashed potatoes with brown gravy and slightly vinegar-tangy and smoky green beans cooked with fatty bits of meat. Other side options we could have chosen: macaroni and cheese, cole slaw, baked beans and corn. Packets of Honey Sauce tossed in by an employee of the Broadway location in North Little Rock probably would have helped the biscuits that were a bit on the dry side.

Smaller KGC configurations are available. At this location, a one-piece meal with two sides and a biscuit is $5.29; a three-piece is $7.49. A two piece lunch with two sides, a biscuit and a medium drink is $5.19 for a limited time (regularly $5.99).

KFC Address: Locations around Arkansas Cuisine: Fried and now grilled chicken Credit cards: AE, D, V, MC Carryout: Yes www.kfc.com

Weekend, Pages 38 on 05/14/2009

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