Grampa’s knows catfish, but menu’s a scold

By Katherine Benenati

Photo by Karen E. Segrave

Fried catfish platter at Grampa’s Catfish House

ADVERSTISMENT

LITTLE ROCK — By the time we got around to ordering at Grampa’s Catfish House, we’d finished half a bucket of peanuts, four pickle spears, a third of a bowl of coleslaw and, much to my consternation, my husband had speared a few onion slices.

The service was just fine, mind you, but it takes me awhile to navigate phonebook-size menus. Those without 20/20 vision may need a magnifying glass or a good pair of reading spectacles to take it all in.

And it’s not easy to home in on what you want when just about everything looks good, from the guilty pleasure of fried catfish to the meals for two and combinations like Taste of the South (three catfish filets, two fried tomatoes, fried okra and fried squash, $8.99).

Of course, half the fun of reading the menu is coming across tidbits like this: “There is a risk with the consumption of seafood/fish, or any raw animal protein,”or “Thank you FOR NOT SHARING your All-U-Can-Eat dinner.”

The menu also has customer favorites and employee picks, free substitutions and those that’ll cost you. And the healthier options have cute monikers like “rabbit food PETA plate.” There’s also a lengthy list of kids stuff including chicken strips, shrimp, hamburgers and more ($2.99-$4.99).

For all of our menu perusing, our meal choices weren’t all that adventurous - well, mine wasn’t - when we visited the Sherwood restaurant on a recent weeknight. (There are also Hot Springs and Little Rock locations.)

I chose the broiler sampler, six filets of Cajun, “blacken’d” and sauteed catfish over Cajun rice, served with hushpuppies ($9.99). Husband Greg threw caution to the wind and went for the all-you-can eat catfish ($13.99).

I’d like to take this opportunity to apologize to the management. For professional reasons, despite your menu warning, I snagged some of his catfish when our waitress was in the kitchen. I found my very small bite tender, juicy not greasy and the batter crisp. My husband was impressed that the filets were meaty - not skimpy - and we both liked the tangy tartar sauce.

The coleslaw (free of charge unless you share, then it costs $1) had a touch of sweetness and was mercifully not drowning in mayonnaise.The hushpuppies - ugly, lumpy, bursting with corn and incredibly tasty - that came with both of our meals were coveted.

My Cajun rice had a nice kick, and while the fish was not as meaty as the fried variety, it was well-spiced and tender. I preferred the Cajun because it reminded me of Old Bay seasoning, although I’m not sure what combination of spices the kitchen used. (One shouldn’t ask for such secrets and likely won’t get the amounts used anyway.)

We finished the meal with the recommended fried apple pie, which had a nice dustingof cinnamon sugar. The filling was a bit too minced for my taste. Actually, I went that one alone because my husband was still trying to conquer the never-ending supply of catfish. He finally threw in the napkin with an “I’m defeated” and a satisfied sigh.

The napkin was about the only thing we got to throw that evening. One other note from the management, hung above our table - no more throwing peanut shells on the floor; the insurers won’t allow it.

Grampa’s Catfish House Address: 100 Shadow Oaks Road, Sherwood Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Sunday for lunch, 4:30-9:30 p.m. for dinner Cuisine: Catfish, seafood, steak, chicken Credit cards: V, MC, D, AE Alcoholic beverages: Beer and wine Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes, family packs and catfish by the pound available (501) 834-5400

Weekend, Pages 48 on 11/26/2009

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