ZION NATIONAL PARK, Utah — I knew this was going to be a difficult hike when, after less than one-half mile, I had to ask for the trekking poles. The overly attractive twentysomething woman who blew past us while trail running didn’t help my confidence either.
Angels Landing Trail in Zion National Park in southwest Utah is just one of the numerous hiking trails in the park. My husband, Mike McCall, and I had not done any serious hiking in more than a year, but to get back into things, we picked one heck of a trail.
Climbing nearly 1,500 vertical feet, Angels Landing is a very strenuous, yet well maintained, mostly concrete trail.
Before you know it, you can look back and see the trail as it zigzags upward toward Refrigerator Canyon, which offers a short break (and level ground) before the real fun starts. Up ahead is Walter’s Wiggles, a set of 21 very steep, man-made switchbacks that lead to Scout Lookout.
After you make it to the top, and eventually catch your breath, the payoff is well-worth the effort. A nearly 180-degree view of the canyon was our reward.
On the trek up, our weather was gloomy. Rain threatened nearly all day and persistent dark clouds loomed near the peaks, but we didn’t care. We wanted to scramble the last half-mile along the ridge of the jagged, rocky trail with only chains for support, but we were quickly losing daylight and being on a cliff with little daylight was not my idea of fun.
Compared to many of the nation’s scenic national parks, Zion National Park is relatively compact. Just 232 square miles, or roughly twice the size of the city of Little Rock, Zion packs quite a punch. Ranked seventh in popularity among the 56 national parks, Zion is part of the Grand Circle, a trio of parks; the others are Bryce Canyon and the Grand Canyon. Carving its way through Zion is the Virgin River, a tributary of the Colorado River.
It takes about a day to get to the park from Little Rock. The closest major airport is Las Vegas. Grab your luggage, grab a rental car and head up Interstate 15. You can be in the park in less than seven hours. We first visited Zion in 2006 and loved it so much we knew immediately that we’d return.
During our 2006 visit, we spent our time in the southern part of the park, which is overwhelmingly the most popular. In October, for a change of scenery, we headed to Kolob Canyons in the northern section.
What a hidden gem!
Kolob Canyons is quiet, colorful and very scenic.
On our second day, vivid blue skies dotted with puffy white clouds filled the morning. As we trekked along a ridge line on the Timber Creek Trail, a cold and steady 20 mph wind left me with windburned cheeks. The reward was amazing views. The steady and gentle trail ended at an overlook with a 360-degree view of Kolob Canyons. In some aspects the terrain is very different from the southernmost region, but nonetheless just as lovely.
We headed back down to the Taylor Creek Trail, which winds its way through the valley. The trail is densely forested and crosses the shallow Taylor Creek numerous times. This time we were graced with what we didn’t have in the southern part of the park - solitude. If you enjoy hiking the trails less traveled, Kolob Canyons is the perfect destination.
We hiked only a couple of miles before turning back because sunset was less than an hour away, and clear skies meant the sunset was going to benothing short of stunning. As the sun dipped lower, so did the temperatures.
We headed back to the road and waited for the cliffs to be set ablaze with brilliant reds and oranges.
Along with visiting Kolob Canyons and the main part of the park, Zion also offers canyoneering, biking, river tubing and much more. On both of our visits, we stayed at the Desert Pearl Inn, desertpearl.com. Just minutes from the visitors center in nearby Springdale, the inn was another place of solitude. Our spacious room featured warm hues, natural stone, concrete countertops, upscale toiletries and a king-size bed that was beyond comfortable. The crisp white sheets felt like silk, and the down comforter made it hard to leave. Much of the wood throughout the inn is old-growth Douglas fir and redwood reclaimed from the historic Lucin Cutoff railroad trestle. Our private balcony faced the Virgin River, which provided the only sound we could hear.
Since our first trip, Zion’s dining opportunities have exploded. The majority of the restaurants are within walking distance from any of the area’s lodging or you can hop on the free (seasonal) shuttle that runs along Zion Park Boulevard. Chain restaurants are scarce. Most of the cuisine is local, fresh, inexpensive and very good.
For breakfast, check out The Spotted Dog Cafe and enjoy a very well-stocked breakfast buffet of scrambled eggs, plain or jazzed up with spinach, mushroom and onions. The buffet also features sausage and bacon, fresh fruit and a nice selection of pastries and muffins. If you fill up on breakfast, you can skip lunch on the trail and save your appetite for dinner.
Zion Pizza & Noodle Company offers pizzas and pastas that can be the perfect ending to a long day on the trail. The Zion Outdoor Center is in the same building, stays open late and is a great place to spend some serious money on all the outdoor gear you forgot to bring.
Options for lunch on the trail are limited, but it may have been that we were there late in the season. We took a ham and cheese wrap from Sol Foods Restaurant but after a few hours in a backpack, it was mush and a complete mess. The next day, we decided to build our own lunch. After a trip to the local and very overpriced Sol Foods supermarket (conveniently named), we bought a block of cheese, sliced salami and crackers and tossed it all into the backpack.
Another dining opportunity is Oscar’s Cafe and its ample selection of salads, burgers and Mexican food. Also poplar is the Bit & Spur, Switchback Grille and the upscale Parallel Eighty Eight. For breakfast, Wildcat Willies Ranch Grill & Saloon serves traditional favorites like fluffy pancakes and hearty granola. Oscar’s also offers an outstanding breakfast.
On your way out of town, make a quick side trip and spend an hour or so visiting Grafton, a ghost town about seven miles from Springdale. It was settled in December 1859 as part of a southern Utah cotton-growing project ordered by Brigham Young. Grafton was wiped out years later by a flood - thanks to the Virgin River, the same river that helped carve out the canyons nearby. Over time, settlers returned and the tiny town prospered, but it was short lived. The last residents left in the early 20th century. All that remains of Grafton is the cemetery, the schoolhouse/church and a few houses.
As we headed back to Las Vegas for our return home, we were already talking about which hikes we were going to do on our next visit. One thing is for sure, we’ll be hiking Angels Landing again. But perhaps next time, I can skip the trekking poles.
For more information on Zion National Park, call (435) 772-3256 or check out
nps.gov/zion
.
Travel, Pages 56 on 12/19/2010