Flavor: Worth the drive

Some travel as far as 22 miles for a doughnut

— Roy “Gene” Neighbors of Hot Springs never cooked doughnuts before in his life, but a week before opening Spa City Doughnuts - the familiar retro, galvanizedmetal storefront on Park Avenue - he learned.

He became so proficient at making doughnuts that patrons who flock to the shiny shop often become regulars.

“There isn’t another doughnut store on this end of town,” he said, postulating on the success of his year-and-a-half-long venture. Customers credit the quality of the doughnuts, however.

Bob Van Vickler of Hot Springs Village is one of the faithful who comes to the sanctuary intent on commandeering a table and reading the daily newspaper over his cinnamon-sugar twist, raised chocolate nut and tall cup of coffee.

“It doesn’t get any better than this,” he said, settling in. “These doughnuts are worth the drive, and they sell out fast, especially on Saturday. They’re wiped out by 10 a.m.”

“It’s amazing the amount of village people who come all this way,” Neighbors said, and pointed toward Vickler. “He drives 22 miles one way, and he comes almost every single day.”

Neighbors’ natural tendency to converse with his customers has served his interests well.

“I listen to everyone. I like to try new things, like pineapple fritters.”

They didn’t make the cut, however. The only fritters listed on the permanent menu are apple, peach and cherry.

“I always have apple fritters. They’re one of my best sellers,” he said.

Between 12 and 15 varieties of doughnuts are available daily. Devil’s-food doughnuts, chocolate doughnuts with chocolate icing, blueberry and old fashions. ... The list goes on. Neighbors turns on the ovens at 2 in the morning and doesn’t turn them off until late in the morning.

The Breakfast Burger - a kolache consisting of egg, sausage and two different cheeses baked in doughnut dough - is popular, and the Jalapeño Polish Sausage Wraps are a local favorite.

“I’m almost becoming as famous for the kolaches as thedoughnuts,” he said.

Though Neighbors had no formal training, he does have fond memories of his mother working in a doughnut store when he was a child.

“She was so happy, and she’d come home with all these stories about what happened at the shop and about the customers. I used to think there was nothing I’d rather do than cook doughnuts for people and make them happy.”

Assisting in the every-personhappy business are Neighbors’ family members: sister Karen Richards, sons Kevin Neighbors and Jason Daugherty, and daughters Nicole and Sharon Miller. Paula Hopper, who greets customers from behind the counter, is a distant cousin.

“I have a lot of relatives,” Neighbors said. “My people homesteaded a lot around here.”

He has high hopes of expanding hours and opening new locations.

“I’m a stickler about quality, though,” Neighbors said. “I have to get this restaurant perfect first.”

The bell on the door tinkles, indicating another hungry customer has entered, and Neighbors jumps up to check the inventory.

“This is a happy place,” he said.

On the counter is a sign: “Sit long; talk much; laugh often.” That sounds like good advice. And here’s more: Get there early, especially if you’re planning a Saturday visit.

Spa City Doughnuts, at 250 Park Ave. in Hot Springs, is open from 6 a.m. to noon Monday through Saturday, with plans to expand the hours soon. Contact the shop by phone at (501) 623-2190.

Homemade Doughnuts Ingredients: 2 packages of instant yeast 1 cup warm water 4 1/2 cups of flour (plus additional flour for surfaces) 10 tablespoons unsalted butter (plus additional butter for the bowl) 2/3 cup of sugar 3 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla (optional) 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional) 1 te a spoon ground nu t m e g (optional)1 teaspoon salt Oil for frying (peanut, vegetable or canola recommended) Tools and materials: Bowls Mixer Plastic wrap (for covering dough while it rises) Doughnut cutter or 2 round cookie cutters of different sizes Baking sheet Deep fryer or wok Thermometer Spatula Slotted spoon Wire baking rack Paper towels (for draining doughnuts) Directions:

Empty the contents of 2 packages of instant yeast into 1 cup of warm water. Let the yeast dissolve in the water for five minutes. The yeast has been activated when it begins to foam. Add one cup of the flour to the activated yeast mixture, combine and set aside for at least 30 minutes in order to give the mixture time to rest.

In a separate bowl, use a mixer to beat 10 tablespoons of unsalted butter together with the sugar, adding each of the three eggs one at a time. Add 1 teaspoon of salt (and the vanilla, cinnamon and/or nutmeg, if desired) to the butter mixture, beating to combine. Allow yeast mixture to rest for at least 30 minutes and add it to the butter mixture, along with the remaining 3 1/2 cups of flour.

Start on low speed and gradually increase the mixer to medium speed, mixing until the dough is well-combined. Grease a large bowl with butter or oil, and transfer the dough to the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rise for at least one hour.

After the dough has risen, roll or pat it out on a floured surface until the dough is about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch thick. Cut out the doughnuts using a doughnut cutter or two round cookie cutters of varying sizes (in order to form a doughnut shape). Set the doughnuts on a floured bakingsheet and allow to rise for another 30 minutes.

Add the oil to the wok or deep fryer and preheat to approximately 350 degrees, gauging the temperature with your thermometer. Gently add the doughnuts to the hot oil, three or four at a time, taking care not to overcrowd the oil. Remember, the doughnuts will expand as they cook. Once the doughnuts begin to look golden brown (after one to two minutes), use the spatula to flip them over, and cook for at least an additional minute.

Remove doughnuts from the oil using a slotted spoon and transfer to a wire baking rack lined with paper towels, in order to drain excess oil from the doughnuts.

Allow doughnuts at least 15 minutes to cool before adding glaze or toppings.

Cinnamon-Sugar Topping Ingredients: 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Directions:

Combine the sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. After frying, allow doughnuts to cool slightly and toss them in the cinnamonsugar mixture while still warm.

Glaze Ingredients: 1/4 cup milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups powdered sugarDirections:

Heat milk and vanilla together over medium heat until warm. Stir in sugar and whisk until smooth consistency is achieved. Remove saucepan from heat.

After allowing doughnuts to cool slightly, drizzle glaze over doughnuts, or dip the doughnuts in glaze until coated. Place glazed doughnuts on a wire baking rack over wax paper in order to allowexcess glaze to drip off.

Chocolate Glaze Ingredients: 1 (12 ounce) package of semisweet chocolate chips 1 cup heavy cream, whole milk or half and half Powdered sugar (added to taste)Directions: Place chocolate chips in a medium heat-proof bowl. Boil cream in a small saucepan and pour over chocolate chips. Whisk to combine until smooth consistency is achieved.

Gradually add powdered sugar to taste, if desired. Dip cooled doughnuts in glaze.

Tri-Lakes, Pages 59 on 06/24/2010

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