CHEAP EATS: Kroger on Chenal’s beefed-up deli impresses

— When I need a quick meal but don’t want to cook, more and more I gravitate to the grocery stores that are expanding their prepared-food offerings. They are convenient, reasonably priced and approach gourmet quality in some instances.

The new Kroger Marketplace on Chenal Parkway is a good example. Take a left as you enter the store and soon you will find a world of food that includes fruits and vegetables, fresh breads, meat, cheese, pastries and the Kroger Bistro.

The Bistro’s hot food line includes what the company calls “Chef Prepared” favorites. There you’ll find readyto-eat cooked entrees, and sides that include mashed potatoes, green beans and corn.

Next is a display case that holds a glorious array of takehome selections like chicken breast, meatloaf, baked salmon, chicken salad with grapes, tuna salad, apple Waldorf salad, Greek orzo and grilled pork loin. Spread throughout the area are hot and cold sections like salads, pasta salads and vegetables.

There’s a deli meat counter featuring unusual items such as rosemary and sun-dried tomato ham, and cheeses that can be sliced and bought by the pound. Next to the deli is a cart full of beautiful breads, buns and rolls that could easily be combined with a few slices of meat and cheese to make a fresh sandwich personalized with your own special flair.

The middle of the deli is anchored by a large display of international cheeses with plentiful samples to try. There was a pleasant man working in that area on our recent visit, and he offered some interesting snippets of information about the cheeses and the other items in his domain. Next to the cheese display is a well-stocked olive bar.

There’s a separate soup bar as well, serving up a selection that includes garden vegetable, New Englandclam chowder, chili and loaded baked potato ($2.50 to $5), depending on carton size.

And last but not least is the sushi section, where you’ll find a friendly fellow or two turning out beautiful works of edible art made with rice, a variety of vegetables, avocado, crab, shrimp and raw fish. The refrigerated display case offers small takeout containers of maki rolls and sushi. Soy sauce and chopsticks are available to take with you.

Directly across from the Bistro in refrigerated units are pre-packaged fresh meals, such as chicken tenders and wings, salads, sandwiches, soups and desserts, as well as deli meats and cheese. And, if you want something warm, there’s a heated area that holds fresh boneless wings and breaded chicken tenders.

I’ve made two visits and sampled items that include: Chicken salad with grapes. A delicious and slightly sweet mixture that also includes pecans and I think poppyseeds. At $8.49 a pound, it’s not inexpensive but can be bought in smaller, sandwich-size portions, such as a quarter pound.

An individually packaged 3-inch Pecan Tart ($3.99) that was much like the traditional Southern pecan pie.

The six-piece chicken tenders ($5.99), which were restaurant quality. I also got a 12-count boneless Buffalo wing pack ($3.99). They weren’t overly spicy and were more like chicken nuggets made with white meat.

Boar’s Head Creme Havarti Cheese ($9.99 a pound). I asked for the cheese to be sliced very thin, and it was almost too thin. But it was delicious and creamy.

Curried Cous Cous ($5.99 a pound). It’s a flavorful but not too strong curry dish that also includes raisins.

The Sonoma Salad ($5.99 a pound) includes wheatberries and currants and is delicious.

The Lobster Bisque is thick and creamy with just a hint of sherry, and it’s as good as some I’ve eaten in restaurants.

Sushi offerings include the Caterpillar Roll ($5.99) and Tempura Shrimp ($7.29). Also, Seaweed Salad ($3.29), Baby Octopus Salad ($3.99), and maki rolls with names like Crying Ocean, Salmon Lover, Eel Roll and the Boston Roll. Thankfully, the containers are clearly marked because some of the rolls are spicy.

Florida Key Lime Pie and Raspberry Almond Biscotti Cheesecake ($3.49-$3.99 per slice). The Key lime pie was tart and delicious. The raspberry cheesecake was more biscotti crust than anything and was a bit lackluster. Other desserts include cream puffs, tiramisu, caramel apples and beautiful little pyramid cakes covered with chocolate.

Overall, the ambience of the Kroger Bistro section is comfortable and inviting. It’s well-lighted, laid out in a convenient and attractive way, and contains a variety of foods that are priced for most budgets. There is a dining area at the front of the store if you want to eat there, but if you decide on takeout, the store provides adequate packaging to keep the food fresh and secure.

Kroger Marketplace Address: 16105-D Chenal Parkway, Little Rock Cuisine: Chicken, deli meats, cheese, desserts, vegetables and sushi Credit cards: AE, D, V, MC Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes (501) 217-7910

Weekend, Pages 40 on 10/14/2010

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