Gouda stuff from goats

Cheeses made from these hardy animals’ milk are tangy delights

— When you hear the words goat cheese, do you crinkle your nose and say something like, “ugh”? Or, do you respond with delight at the ways one can enjoy the tangy treat?

We conducted an informal poll of co-workers and friends to gauge their take on goat cheese, and the responses were as varied as the styles of this often misunderstood cheese.

“I’ve tried it before, and it was a lot better than I’d been told. ... If I had to eat it all the time I think I could.”

“First thing that comes to mind might be exotic and different. The taste is certainly much different than cow’s milk, and you get a completely different taste experience.

I’d call it strong cheese, but not smelly or anything like that.”

“Goat cheese tastes like hair of the goat to me. Strong and overpowering, goaty.”

“When I hear the words goat cheese, my mouth waters because I love it.”

For the most part, the responses were positive, and a few of those polled had never eaten goat cheese. But like many foods that have an exotic reputation, you’ll never know if you like it unless you try it.

Goats were one of the first domesticated animals, so it stands to reason that goat cheese has a long and varied history. There are references to goat cheese in Homer’s The Odyssey, written in 800 B.C.

Its unique flavor and aroma comes partly from the fatty acids in goat’s milk, which are different from cow’s milk,and partly from the food that goats eat. For example, the hardy animals eat a much larger variety of plants than cows, some of which may be bitter and affect their milk.

In France it’s called chevre (pronounced shev), which is goat in French, so if you see that word on a package label, you’ll know the product is made from goat’s milk.

Cheese made with all goat’s milk is labeled pur chevre, while cheeses lacking the phrase were likely made with a blend of milks.

Much like cheese made from cow’s milk, goat cheeses vary according to age, moisture content, size, shape and coatings. Young cheeses are usually white in color, while older cheeses tend to develop a deeper cream color. The flavor of goat cheese changes over time, becoming stronger and more complex as it ages.

It can range from creamy and mild to pungent and crumbly.

Compared to many cow’s milk cheeses, goat cheese tends to be lower in fat, calories and cholesterol.

Fresh goat cheese is spreadable, highly suited for use in cooking and can be used in place of sour cream or cream cheese. It usually comes in tubs, cones or rolls, and you can often find versions that have herbs or spices mixed in. Some are marinated in olive oil or red wine, or covered in herbs, black pepper or even chocolate.

Other styles include cheddar, brie, Romano, Gouda and feta.

Some varieties of goat cheese are “mold ripened,” which means that special molds are added to the milk during the cheese-making process to ripen the cheese from the outside and produce a specific flavor. Brie is an example of a mold-ripened cheese. Most of the rinds are edible, although their appearance may be off-putting to consumers unaccustomed to the style.

According to whatscookingamerica.net, when storing goat cheese, it’s best to leave it in its original packaging to protect it from air, which promotes the growth of mold and leads to the cheese developing strange odors or colors. It can also be frozen for longer periods of time in small quantities - a pound or less - as long as it’s tightly wrapped. Just thaw the cheese in the refrigerator a day or two before eating it, and bring it to room temperature before serving to maximize the flavor.

Specialty shops and grocery stores with large cheese selections, such as Whole Foods and Kroger, offer a wide selection of pre-packaged goat cheeses, and some sell cut-to-order cheeses from large wheels or slabs. And at some stores you can ask to try it before you buy so you don’t wind up with something you just don’t like.

Some of the unusual varieties we found in central Arkansas include:

Drunken Goat (Spain): A pasteurized goat cheese that is soaked in red wine for two to three days, creating a thin purple rind with an earthy flavor. The cheese has a mild flavor and creamy texture.

Ski Queen Gjetost (Norway): This Scandinavian cheese is also known as brunost, or brown cheese. To get the unique caramel-ish taste and texture, a mixture of milk, cream and whey is boiled for several hours, which causes the water to evaporate. The heat turns the milk into sugar caramel, which gives the cheese a slightly sweet flavor.

Woolwich Dairy Triple Creme Goat Brie (Canada and Wisconsin): Similar to traditional cow’s milk brie, this version features a thick but soft rind with a buttery soft interior. In terms of flavor, you’d be hard-pressed to tell that it wasn’t made with cow’s milk.

There are also a couple of good online options with a nice variety:

Localharvest.org offers everything from food to flowers to pet products. If you click on “shop” then select the Dairy & Eggs button, you’ll find a small selection of goat cheeses that includes goat gouda, and feta marinated in olive oil with fresh herbs and orange zest.

Redwoodhill.com is the website of a goat farm and dairy in California that offers cheddar, feta, chevre and bucheret, a mold-ripened white cheese. They sell milk and yogurt too, and you can take a virtual tour of the farm and watch a video of the cheese making process.

Below are three easy recipes that incorporate goat cheese. First is a version of baked brie. It’s delicious, easy and perfect for entertaining as we near the party-giving season.

Festive Baked Brie 1 (6 1 /2-ounce) wheel goat brie 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1 tablespoon dried cranberries 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped walnuts Heat oven to 375 degrees.

In a small bowl mix syrup, cranberries and walnuts together and spoon on top of the brie. Place on baking sheet and bake for 8 to 10 minutes until soft. Serve with crackers or thinly sliced baguette bread.

Recipe from Woolwich Dairy

The following recipe combines sweet figs with tangy goat cheese for a simple appetizer that can be made in about 20 minutes.

Roasted Fig With Goat Cheese 8 ripe figs 1 1 /2 tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil 1 /2 cup soft goat cheese 1 /2 cup honey, divided use 1 /2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves

Heat oven to 400 degrees.

Using a knife, carefully trim any tough portion of the stem from each fig. Rub each fig all over with olive oil, then slice down through the stem about three-quarters of an inch. Make a second cut across the first cut, so that you have an Xshaped cut in the top of each fig.

Gently pry the edges apart and stuff each fig with about 1 tablespoon of the goat cheese.

Place the figs upright on a baking sheet or in a shallow baking dish and bake 10 minutes or until the figs are plump but have not burst.

Drizzle half of the honey onto a serving plate and place the roasted figs on top of the honey. Sprinkle with chopped rosemary, then drizzle the remaining honey. Serve immediately.

Makes 8 servings.

Recipe from grouprecipes.com Chevre Rolled in Dried Cranberries

1 (11-ounce) fresh goat cheese log

2 cups dried cranberries

Bread or crackers, for serving Remove the goat cheese log from packaging and set aside. Evenly distribute the dried cranberries on a sheet of parchment paper. Roll the cheese log into the cranberries and wrap with the parchment paper. Firmly roll the wrapped log so cranberries adhere to the cheese. Place in the refrigerator to chill. Unwrap at least 30 minutes before serving.

Slice and serve with bread or crackers.

Recipe from chavrie.com

Food, Pages 36 on 09/29/2010

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