Faithful fans flock to Trio’s

At Trio’s restaurant, A Tisket, a Tasket ... the
Lamb Is in a Basket is served in an edible
baked parmesan basket.
At Trio’s restaurant, A Tisket, a Tasket ... the Lamb Is in a Basket is served in an edible baked parmesan basket.

— The scouting report on Trio’s is that it serves fashionable food for the garden club crowd. The impressionist oil painting anchoring the dining area - and mirrored on the menu covers - reinforces this.

In my two visits - a weekday lunch and a Saturday supper - the eyeball-estimated average age of the Trios set was 50-plus.

That could be taken as a compliment to Trio’s staying power, as well as that of its clientele, some of whom have been faithful customers for much of the restaurant’s quarter-century in business. But why it’s the preponderant demographic still leaves me somewhat puzzled.

There’s little about the Cantrell Road cafe, recessed as it is in the tony Pavilion in the Park complex, that would ward off the young professional. At noon, the dining room is lighted naturally by east-facing windows; at night, by creative directional lighting. Interior highlights include a large and elegant wine rack against one wall, a tray ceiling in the back, and plush drapery outlining the tall windows. Outside, there’s a spacious brick patio beneath a pine pergola.

Perhaps my ageist perception comes from the glass-topped tables (that is, thick glass over white muslin tablecloths) and the double-wide chairs. The tables remind me of fitted plastic furniture cases from the ’70s,but I must say the chairs are luxuriant.

The lunch menu features a series of sandwiches and salads that are truly one of a kind. The Duke of Windsor ($8), for instance, is sliced turkey and cheddar with bacon, grilled pineapple and mango chutney on sourdough. It’s a heavy, indelicate thing that probably has a cult following, but won’t appeal to everyone. A more prevalent order among my day’s lunch crowd was the Trio’s chicken salad ($8.95), served with banana bread and “Mattie’s bing cherry Jell-O salad.”

These lunch specials are unlike anything a chain eatery would risk. And as much as the Primavera ($7.50) -avocado, sunflower seeds, provolone, carrots and other vegetables on whole-grain bread - might furrow my brow, I salute the derringdo.

I picked the Peck’s Special Salad ($8.95), a bed of romaine lettuce topped with grilled chicken, toasted almonds and bacon, tossed in a house vinaigrette. Some version of this salad has existed in the Rock for decades, and despite this version being a little heavy on the oil, I can see why.

This was the first week of September, and the last for strawberry shortcake. Such a seasonal dish should not be passed on at Trio’s, a place that really tries to bring to the table fruits and vegetables at their most ebullient. And we didn’t. The sliced strawberries glistened like lollipop heads. They formed a mountain, and the juice gathered in a dipping circle around the cake. The sweet of a strawberry is a particular kind of precious.

A few days later, when a companion and I returned for dinner, I was still shaking myhead at the lunch menu. We ordered the crab cake ($7.50) and the BBLT salad ($7.50) to start. The crab cake was a bit gummy and proffered no discernible crab meat; but patted with poppy seeds and fried in sesame-seed oil, it was a start. The salad, on the other hand, with applewood bacon, tomatoes and onions drizzled with creamy gorgonzola vinaigrette, was a perfect blend of textures and taste.

Like its dishes, Trio’s cocktails are one-of-a-kind. The Going Green is a shake of Tanqueray Rangpur gin, a rosemary simple syrup, essences of jalapeno and squeezed lime; the name should be “Green means go!” because there is nothing conservationist about it.My date wanted a bit of the Spa Treatment, an associative reference to the cucumber vodka and muddled cucumber in the drink. It was perhaps too tame.

She was happier with the Columbia River salmon with caper vinaigrette ($24). The salmon, encrusted in panko and Dijon mustard and panseared, is served atop roasted yellow pepper risotto and a few asparagus spears. The portions here - everywhere at Trio’s, really - are generous.

I was surprised when my A Tisket, a Tasket ... the Lamb Is in a Basket ($24) actually arrived in an edible baked parmesan basket, filled out with spring lettuce, strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, gorgonzola and toasted pecans tossed in a white truffle vinaigrette.

Why I would expect a side of sweet potatoes and haricots vert with my lamb is foolish, ignorant. Already I should know that at Trio’s I shouldn’t expect the conventional. Unfortunately, I read “lamb,” and said “Yes, quite right. That will do.” I never did read the rest of the description.

Since California fusion, the contemporary American restaurant scene has been calling its cuisine “eclectic,” but that’s code for “trendy.” Trio’s Capi Peck and Brent Peterson are eclectic. Their offerings are a blend of fresh ingredients and whimsy.

Trio’s 8201 Cantrell Road, Little Rock Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5:30-9:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday Cuisine: New American Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V Alcoholic beverages: Full bar Reservations: A good idea Wheelchair accessible: Yes Carryout: Yes (501) 221-3330 triosrestaurant.com

Weekend, Pages 33 on 09/30/2010

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