RANGELEY, Maine — Pause in the late afternoon at the Height of Land Overlook on Maine 17 just south of Oquossoc, near Rangeley.
Watch as the sky above Mooselookmeguntic Lake blazes orange, magenta and powder-puff pink. The setting sun highlights a Maine very different from the Maine of rocky shorelines, crashing surf and iconic lighthouses.
This road less traveled brings visitors to remote lakes and woods enjoyed by American Indians for several thousand years before the first Europeans arrived.
Located about 130 miles north of Portland, and previously visited mostly by serious fishermen, hunters, hikers and canoeing enthusiasts, Rangeley and its surrounding lakes today attract adventurous travelers and those wanting to escape the buzz of modern-day life amid beautiful surroundings. Anyone interested in casting for the area’s legendary brook trout, paddling a portion of the 740-mile Northern Forest Canoe Trail or hiking easy or challenging trails will not be disappointed. Other visitors arrive in August to attend the annual Bluegrass Festival at famous Saddleback Mountain, which, in winter is one of the most popular ski areas in New England. (This year’s festival was Aug. 12 and 13.)
A good way to begin a visit, especially on a rainy afternoon, is to stop by the museums that offer an overview of Rangeley’s history. Logging has always played an important role in Maine’s economy, and visitors can learn about the industry at the Rangeley Lakes LoggingMuseum. Although the last of the picturesque but dangerous log drives on the state’s waterways took place in the 1970s - timber is now transported by truck and rail - the museum houses artifacts including tools and examples of bateaux, the flat-bottomed boats used in the early river drives, and mementos and oil paintings of the difficult life in the early 20th-century logging camps.
At the new and expansive Rangeley Outdoor Sporting Heritage Museum, visitors wander through a reconstructed 1890s hunting camp decorated with a set of moose antlers with a 61-inch spread and learn about life in similar fishing and hunting camps through original written documents and photographs.
Although all this sportiness may seem traditionally masculine, the women who helped shape Rangeley have not been overlooked. Included at the Rangeley Outdoor Sporting Heritage Museum are tributes to Carrie Stevens (1882-1970), who wowed her contemporaries by designing and tying more than 150 kinds of flies, including the famous Gray Ghost, a fly that strikes awe in serious anglers to this day.
Exhibits also memorialize Cornelia Crosby (1854-1946), who tramped through Rangeley’s woods and across streams dressed in appropriate female attire of the times - a dress with a tight bodice, voluminous sleeves, and a full-length skirt - while putting most of the local men to shame with her skill with a fishing rod.
Cheerfully calling herself “Fly Rod” Crosby, she turned up as Maine’s representative to the 1898 Sportsman’s Exposition in New York, where she caused a minor scandal by chopping off her skirts a few inches above the floor. The resulting flash of ankles initially received more attention - and more press - than the stuffed trout she had brought along, but there’s no doubt that “Fly Rod” knew how to extol Rangeley’s myriad attractions.
Contemporary anglers will find plenty of Rangeley businesses to help acquire licenses and equipment, but there are other ways to enjoy the many lakes that sparkle like crystals at every turn. Besides swimming, you can while away a hot summer afternoon aboard the Oquossoc Lady on Rangeley Lakewhile learning about local history.
Other nearby lakes include Upper and Lower Richardson, Kennebago, Umbagog, Mooselookmeguntic and Cupsuptic. The Abenaki Indians named many of the lakes for an outstanding characteristic; Mooselookmeguntic, for example, means “place where the moose come to feed.” All provide wonderful opportunities for bird-watchers and photographers.
Bald eagles soar overhead as canoe and kayak enthusiasts enjoy the lakes, alone or with a guide, for easy flatwater trips of an hour or so, or for challenging paddles of several days’ duration. This is one of the best ways to see and hear the area’s abundant wildlife, which may include sightings of moose, deer, beaver and foxes, along with ducks and other waterfowl.The silence is often punctuated by the mournful howl of a distant coyote or the rat-atat-tat of pileated woodpeckers and the otherworldly cry of loons.
Hiking trails abound, with detailed maps readily available from the Chamber of Commerce just off Main Street. Trails range fromeasy to difficult, and include a section of the Appalachian Trail that runs across the summit of Saddleback Mountain. Maine weather can change in a matter of moments, so for even the shortest trips it’s wise to be prepared with a map, water, long pants, a sweater and plenty of bug repellant. Hikers are rewarded with panoramic mountain views, tumbling waterfalls, unusual rock formations and wildflower meadows.
Because moose sightings are at the top of many visitors’ to-do lists, beginning in late June the Guest Services Center at Saddleback runs a free bus called “The Pickle” (the reason for the odd name will be obvious when you see the bus) to areas where moose are known to congregate and feed. It’s a popular family outing that provides a opportunity for an good look at these huge animals thatcan measure 10 feet in length and weigh 1,200 pounds or more. Some 30,000 animals strong, Maine’s moose herd ranks second only to Alaska’s.
Outdoorsy though Rangeley may be, it’s not necessary to stay in rustic cabins or invest in camping gear, although many people arrive here looking for just such an experience. Small inns and bed-and-breakfast accommodations have sprung up and provide plenty of creature comforts. There are surprising restaurant finds, too. Chief among them is Corner Side, a tiny bistro on Main Street that serves breakfast luxuries like fresh raspberry croissants so meltingly delectable that you’ll probably find yourself returning to see what’s for dinner.
Overall, however, innovation comes slowly to this part of Maine. The mountains, lakes, forests and even downtown Rangeley itself seem little altered from photographs taken 50 years ago or more. For many visitors, that’s a big part of its appeal - a pocket of pristine beauty in an ever-changing world.
Rangeley is about 130 miles north of Portland. Roads are fine and the route is scenic; allow at least three hours driving time, perhaps a little more during peak travel seasons or if you come in winter.
Recommended accommodations in Rangeley include the Loon Lodge Inn, the Rangeley Saddleback Inn and the Pleasant Street Inn and B&B.
In Rangeley, consider dining at Corner Side, the Loon Lodge Inn, the Sunset Grille at Rangeley Saddleback Inn and the Red Onion. In Oquossoc, a good bet is the Gingerbread House.
For more information about Rangeley, contact the Rangeley Chamber of Commerce at (207) 864-5364 or check out
rangeley maine.com
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Travel, Pages 48 on 08/21/2011