THREE RIVERS AREA — There is this place in Georgetown, which is east of Searcy, on past Kensett.
There’s no sign on this obscure little structure near the White River. It’s not really someplace you’d just happen upon, and it’s not someplace you’d know about if someone hadn’t let you in on the secret. As a matter of fact, if you planned on eating there, it would be wise to make a reservation; you’ll be asked if you called ahead the moment you step through the door.
The place was once a gas station and bait shop called the Georgetown One Stop, but if you go, you won’t be filling your gas tank. You’ll fill your belly with some of the best catfish around. The fish is pulled fresh each day from the muddy depths of the White River.
People come from all over to scoot a folding chair up to a plastic table. This is evident from the abundance of patrons’ photographs that begin where the walls meet the ceiling and end near the floor.
There are no menus — just catfish and sometimes chicken strips for the finicky kid who doesn’t like fish.
During the short time we were there for dinner, we counted a good 30 people who entered the tiny old building. Some stayed and ate, and others carried out containers of fish and hushpuppies. Many of the customers seemed to be regulars. They addressed Joanna Taylor by name as she brought them sweet tea and lemonade.
When the first paper plate was presented to us, it was filled with pickles, onions and what someone said was homemade tarter sauce. Then plates containing, I’d say, at least eight pieces of perfectly fried catfish, a hushpuppy and, oh, maybe three french fries, were placed in front of us.
To be honest, I was skeptical. Given the shanty-like structure, the plastic, fold-up tables and one server, I didn’t really expect much. But Joanna kept our tea glasses filled and our plates loaded with fish. All the while, she checked out customers who were leaving and seated the incoming groups.
Then we had lemon cake as a reward for cleaning our plates.
I never would have ventured all the way to Georgetown just for catfish if I hadn’t been invited by one of the regulars, nor would I have ever realized what awaited me inside that little shack.
If you want an adventure and some of the best catfish around, go east on Arkansas 36 from Searcy. In about 25 minutes, you’ll see the Georgetown water tower. Start looking on the left for a little structure with flags on the porch. If you have to drive around and search for a parking spot, you’re likely in the right place.