LITTLE ROCK — Q. Why is it that suits of the same size, and even of the same brand name, sometimes fit differently? One example that comes to mind is that more expensive suits run slightly fuller than less expensive suits. Aren’t they constructed with the same measurement specifications? If not, what can I do to assure a good fit?
A. While you might logically assume that the same measurement specifications apply, the truth is that each manufacturer has his own style, so there can be ever-so-slightly different numbers used when making a suit. Even with identical waist measurements, the shoulders, or the lapels, or the tapering may be tweaked in a way that gives one brand a somewhat different silhouette.
In particular, a manufacturer known for its traditional and classic (usually fuller) styling will cut clothes a bit differently from a designer known for his fashion-forward (usually trimmer) fit. The result will be a subtle - or not so subtle - difference in fit.
Here’s another important part of the answer to your question: The clothing industry in the United States has something called “grading” standards - a form of quality control that assures measurement compliance. The industry’s grading in this country is more consistent and predictable than that in Europe or in Asia. Thus, imported suits may vary slightly from what you are used to.
Yet another difference has to do with fabric. Fabrics tailor up differently. For example, cashmere and other such soft luxurious fabrics always tailor up fuller than coarser fabrics. And some fabrics, such as the cotton in a summer suit, is usually less “forgiving,” making it more difficult to tailor. Each fabric behaves somewhat differently. If you were to buy two suits from the same manufacturer and in the same fabric, they should fit you the same, not only because of the standard gradings but also because the fabric is the same. However, as you suggested, two suits from the same manufacturer (but in different fabrics) just might fit you differently.
Because of these varying factors, it makes sense to determine which brand or designer is the one that fits you best (that is, fits your body and your personality), and try to stay with that name.
When hunting for the perfect suit, perhaps your first move should be to try on the jacket of a top-quality suit in an 8-to-10-ounce fabric known as a “10-month” suit. When you have found one you think you like and are considering buying, put in its pockets all the items that you normally carry. The suit must fit as it will be worn in the world of reality, not as you see it in a clothing store. If you carry a wallet, a pen, keys, an eyeglass case and your new electronic device in your jacket pockets, transfer them to the one you’re trying on.
You are trying to determine your correct size, so step up to the three-way mirror and look closely at yourself from every angle. And I would advise you to make it absolutely clear to the salesman that you always return to the store for a second fitting, even though that may be stretching it a little. (It helps to get a salesman’s undivided attention.)
I guess, if consistency of fit is important, you might consider giving some preference to American manufacturers.
Send questions for Male Call to:
lois.fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile, Pages 56 on 10/30/2011