LITTLE ROCK — Q. Recently I was at my dentist and, knowing that I enjoy dressing well, she mentioned something she saw while at a custom shop with her husband. He was buying a new suit and the tailor wanted to know if he wanted contrast stitching. She thought that sounded odd, and still felt the same after seeing an example. Have you heard of this and if so what do you think - stylish or overboard?
A. Well, it certainly isn’t traditional. But just because a man is a classic dresser for business does not mean he must always dress conservatively. He might enjoy breaking out of his mold on weekends.
Contrast stitching is a trend, an option that some men like to use to set them and their clothes apart from the typical, classic way of dressing. It is a design detail that is meant to be seen. While a matching stitch color is the standard default for off-the-rack suits and for most custom tailoring as well, some designers and custom tailors offer a selection of thread colors to choose from for the buttonholes on the cuffs, front buttonholes, and the boutonniere hole. It can be a subtle variation just slightly off the color of the cloth, or a flashier color that really pops.
The style is not generally used on suits; it is mostly used on blazers, and especially on “unconstructed” blazers (that is, unlined, less formally tailored jackets). Sometimes, it appears as stitching around attached elbow patches.
This relatively new “fun” detail can be used just for the four buttonholes on the sleeves of a blazer or sport jacket or it can be a playful trick where the only buttonhole that is outlined is the one bottom buttonhole. When it’s only on that bottom button, it is usually on “a working buttonhole,” (a custom detail which is then often left unbuttoned to further call attention to the special design). Occasionally it is part of an even more showy display, where the buttons are four different colors or all the same color with four different colors of cross-stitching threads.
How this sort of style is used depends on the taste of the wearer and just how much of a statement - subtle or not - he wants to make. As examples: A young fashion-focused man might ask for this special sort of accent. Or the wearer may be a baby boomer with gray hair who likes to wear eyeglasses with a red frame. Most often he is a “creative professional” in his 30s or 40s. He is the same guy who avoids anything “stuffy,” and wants something to go with his favorite jeans or to put a modern twist on his classic blue blazer. He likes the idea of customizing his jacket with contrast stitching, unique buttons, or perhaps a vibrant lining for a look that’s fun yet refined. The cut he wants is slim and sleek for a look that reflects his personality.
The style can be found on custom-made blazers, but it is also available in stores. You may opt for it on a Hickey Freeman jacket, or on less expensive Scott James clothing sold in department stores, such as Bloomingdale’s. Since this definitely is not a classic style, if you are on the fence about it, then I would say to skip it. I would also not make it your first foray into adventurous dressing, as you may be uncomfortable with the attention after a day of comments. But, it’s not a Nehru jacket or Hammer pants; if you do decide to go for it, and later decide you don’t like it, your tailor can remove and replace the contrast stitching with matching thread.
Send your questions for Male Call to: lois.fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile, Pages 45 on 12/23/2012