UNCORKED

For New Year’s, it must be bubbly

— Following the hectic bustle of Christmas shopping, travel and choices galore, it’s refreshing knowing that buying the ideal wine for New Year’s Eve is an uncomplicated decision. The tradition poured into the magical midnight toast only seems possible if you see tiny bubbles dancing in the glass. Not to say other wines, beers and spirits are not welcome at the occasion, but something about the sound of Champagne flutes clinking in a toast as the clock strikes midnight makes it an unquestionable choice.

THE HISTORY

Our fascination with Champagne is linked to its long history and an extensive list of contributors along the way, Dom Perignon undeniably the most famous. But a few other discoveries had to come before Perignon could declare: “Brothers, brothers, come quickly for I am seeing stars.”

Two of those developments occurred around the same time - the development of stronger glass for the bottle and an airtight cork closure. Before the

17th century, wine was stored

in casks and individuals took

their own fragile bottles to

local wine merchants, where

they were filled and an oil

soaked rag acted as the cork.

Things changed when King

James I requested that Sir

Robert Mansell, an Admiral

of the Fleet, stop using wood

for heating the furnaces that

produced glass because of

his fear they would not have

enough oak for shipbuilding.

Wood was replaced by sea

coal, which created a higher

temperature and produced a

stronger glass. About the same

time, cork was discovered and

replaced the oil-soaked rag,

and voila, the industry was on

its way to what we think of

when we drink modern-day

Champagne.

THE BOTTLE SIZE A typical Champagne bot

tle is 750 milliliters; however,

many other bottle sizes exist.

The rare sizes are also known

by the names of biblical kings:

Magnum (1.5 liters), Jeroboam

(3 liters), Rehoboam (4.5 li

ters) Methuselah (6 liters),

Salmanazar (9 liters), Baltha

zar (12 liters), Nebuchadne

zzar (15 liters) and the rare

Sovereign, which holds 125

glasses for your guests.

THE TOAST The toast is also part of

the tradition and magic of

Champagne, sparkling wine

or anything that bubbles. As

early as the sixth century

B.C.- the Greeks were toast

ing to good health, longevity

and loved ones. The gesture

was not simply symbolic, as are

today’s toasts, but much more

literal and practical. Sixth-cen

tury wine drinkers were often

served intentionally poisoned

vino - a common way of

dispatching a rival or solving

social problems. Thus began

the custom of the host pouringwine into a glass, taking a drink and then toasting while raising his glass to friends and guests.

The modern-day toast is not as complicated, but there are a few simple tips to remember. Be simple and meaningful to those who you are offering the toast, stand and be brief, and end on a positive note by offering “cheers” or “raise your glass” for those you are toasting.

THE LABELS The label can be the trickiest part for consumers. Most Champagne or sparkling wine will be brut, which means dry, but also you’ll see sec (which literally means dry) but in terms of Champagne means off-dry. Demi-sec is a medium-dry style, with noticeable sweetness. The sweetest are douz and moelleux.

Arkansas-born Lorri Hambuchen is a member of London’s Institute of Wines and Spirits. Send questions or comments to her at the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, Ark. 72203, or e-mail:

uncorked@lorrihambuchen.com

Food, Pages 28 on 12/26/2012

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