LITTLE ROCK — With springtime officially here this week, I thought it would be fun to share a seasonally themed recipe. And the first thought that came to mind was spring rolls.
I’ve found that many people in Western cultures today aren’t particularly aware of the connection between that particular dish and its name. Who knows? Maybe they think it’s just another quaint descriptive Chinese food name, like “egg flower soup” (chicken broth with wisps of beaten egg) or “lion’s head” (large meatballs with cabbage) or “ants climbing a tree” (ground pork served over bean thread noodles). After all, these crispy, deep-fried noodle wrappers are more or less shaped like springs, and their tightly packed fillings can all but spring out at you when you bite into them.
But while learning about Asian cuisines with my chefs, especially the teams working in my Asian-inspired restaurants (Chinois in Santa Monica, Calif., and WP24 in downtown Los Angeles), I found out the simpler explanation. In many Eastern cultures, such treats are customarily prepared for celebrations of the new year, which by traditional calendars comes just before the vernal equinox. And since this is the season of the Earth’s rebirth, such springtime rolls naturally have to include an abundance of delicious fresh vegetables.
Most spring rolls you’ll find in Asian restaurants, the most familiar of which are Chinese or Thai, are typically filled with finely shredded vegetables alone, or with a mixture of vegetables and chicken or pork. But, while respecting the flavors and techniques of the past, my chefs and I also love to try new combinations of ingredients. That creative spirit led to my recipe here for Garlic Lamb and Vegetable Spring Rolls, featuring a spicy-sweet mixture of stir-fried ground lamb, thin rice noodles, four different kinds of vegetables and fresh basil leaves.
Feel free to use the recipe as a starting point for your own variations, trying different meats or vegetables in similar proportions. Look for the mushroom soy sauce, Chinese rice wine, rice noodles, toasted sesame oil, spring roll wrappers, and Thai chili sauce in well-stocked supermarkets or Asian markets.
Whatever filling you use, the technique remains the same. First, stir-fry the filling elements and let them cool. Then, fill, wrap and seal the spring rolls into neat little bundles, following the simple instructions in the recipe. Deep-frying can be made ultra-easy with one of thethermostat-controlled countertop models you’ll find reasonably priced in appliance shops and online.
You’ll be surprised how easy spring rolls are to make, and what delicious results you will get. So, what are you waiting for? Now is definitely the time to spring into action!
GARLIC LAMB AND VEGETABLE SPRING ROLLS Makes 10 Garlic Lamb: 1/4 cup packed dark-brown sugar 2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon cornstarch 1 teaspoon grated orange zest 1 pound coarsely ground lamb leg or shoulder meat 4 tablespoons peanut oil or vegetable oil 1 tablespoon minced ginger 2 tablespoons minced organic green onion 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup waterSpring Rolls: 2 ounces thin rice noodles, soaked in cold water to cover for 20 minutes 4 ounces fresh organic shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded, caps thinly sliced 1 small yellow onion, thinly sliced 1 medium organic carrot, peeled and cut into thin julienne strips 1 organic red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, deveined and cut into thin julienne strips Salt Freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup thinly shredded fresh basil leaves 1 tablespoon toasted Asian sesame oil1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 package square spring-roll or egg-roll wrappers 1 egg, lightly beaten (from cage-free hens) Peanut oil or vegetable oil, for deep frying Sweet Scallion Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)Directions: In a large mixing bowl, combine the brown sugar, mushroom soy, 2 teaspoons garlic, 1 teaspoon cornstarch, and orange zest. Add the lamb and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.
Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat.
Add 2 tablespoons of oil and, when it just begins to give off wisps of smoke, add the remaining garlic, ginger, green onion, and pepper flakes and stir fry just until fragrant, 30 seconds.
Add the lamb mixture and stir-fry until wellbrowned, about 5 minutes. Add the rice wine and stir and scrape to deglaze the pan deposits.
Bring to a simmer, stir in the cornstarch-water mixture, and continue simmering until thickened.
Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
Drain the noodles, roughly chop, and set aside. Wipe out the wok with paper towels and heat over high heat. Add the remaining oil and heat. Add the mushrooms, onion, carrot and bell pepper, and stir-fry until al dente, tender but still slightly crunchy, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
Combine the cooled vegetables and lamb, chopped noodles, basil, sesame oil and soy sauce. Mix well.
To shape a roll, place 1 wrapper on a work surface with 1 corner facing you. (Keep the other wrappers covered with a damp cloth.) Brush all edges with beaten egg. Scoop up a heaping tablespoon of the filling, leaving any juices in the bowl, and place about 1/3 of the way up the wrapper. Fold the point near you up and over the filling. Fold in the sides and then roll up the wrapper, pressing the moistened edges to seal.
Repeat with the remaining ingredients. (If you don’t plan to fry right away, lightly dust with cornstarch.) Preheat at least 3 inches of peanut oil in an automatic countertop deep-fryer or deep, heavy pot to 365 degrees. Fry the rolls a few at a time until evenly golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Serve whole or cut diagonally in half, with Sweet Chili Scallion Dipping sauce.
SWEET CHILI SCALLION DIPPING SAUCE Makes 1/2 cup.
Ingredients: 1/4 cup finely chopped organic green scallions 1/4 cup Thai sweet chili sauce Juice of 1/2 lime Directions: In a small mixing bowl, stir together all the ingredients. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Tri-Lakes, Pages 50 on 03/22/2012