LITTLE ROCK — Let me start this review by saying I’ve never been a big fan of chicken wings, whether spicy or not. They’ve just never been my idea of a meal.
But all that changed recently with a visit to All American Wings’ newest location in North Little Rock. Now you could call me a wing convert.
All American Wings is in a short strip center on Maumelle Boulevard, but the sign was so small, I missed it and had to backtrack. The restaurant was empty when my mother, son and I made our first visit on a weekday.
The dining area is relatively small, but there are plenty of tables and chairs. Or, you can sit at the counter barstools.
The decor is a combination of sports- and music-theme photos, musical notes and symbols, and a big American flag that covers almost half of one wall. The musical symbols are grouped around a small stage area in the corner to the right of the front door, where entertainment takes place some nights. There are also televisions for watching sports, and we did hear tell of karaoke happening sometimes.
I had printed out the online menu to peruse, but noticed that the menus handed to us after we sat down were a bit different for the non-wing offerings. Still, there’s a good selection for a wing place.
My son and I decided to try several flavors of wings, and our helpful server mentioned the all-you-can-eat option for $11.99. That way, we could try unlimited flavors and get more bang for the buck. The dinner comes with crinkle-cut fries, fried okra, bread, celery, carrots and a fried pie.
My mother went for a fried catfish meal ($8.29), which comes with hush puppies and slaw. Along with the fish, the other combo selections are seven-piece wings or chicken strips, or a pork chop meal.
Baskets of fries and okra arrived first; then it didn’t take long for the wings to start making their way to the table. The server brings them out in the bowl they are sauced in, so they were covered pretty well with each flavor. Each table has a big roll of paper towels on it, and you will need them. Trust me.
We chose Buffalo hot, country fried, honey mustard, taco, lemon pepper and garlic parmesan flavors. We got full before we could try more. We enjoyed them all, but I really liked the lemon pepper, honey mustard and the taco, which I’ve never seen on a menu before. These tasted like taco seasoning and, thankfully, weren’t too spicy.
Mom’s catfish dinner, which came with four or five thin pieces, was delicious and crisp. The hush puppies were a bit lackluster and the slaw was OK.
The restaurant also offers sandwich combos for $6.89: hamburger; ham; hot dog; chicken strip; grilled chicken; turkey; fish; or pork chop. And there are garden, grilled chicken and chef salads for $5.39.
The three of us shared the two fried peach pies my son and I received with our dinners. They’d been made to order, so they were hot, flaky and delicious.
We made a second visit about a month later, and the food was outstanding on that trip too. We started with an order of five mozzarella sticks ($1.89), fried crisp on the outside and all gooey on the inside. They came topped with a healthy sprinkle of parmesan cheese, and the marinara dipping sauce was pretty flavorful, although I kind of like them better without the sauce. The parmesan, which was new to me, really kicked them up a notch.
My son went with the all-you-can eat option again. Mom ordered the three-piece small chicken strip dinner ($6.89), and I ordered the five-strip large ($8.29). Our helpful server mentioned that they could also be sauced with one flavor, like they do the wings, so Mom chose teriyaki and I went with lemon pepper. The dinners come with fries, but the server let Mom have a small salad and me a baked potato. The meals also include celery, carrots and a slice of white bread.
For dessert we went with apple and peach fried pies, and they were piping hot and delicious. The menu also lists sweet potato pie, but on both visits, they were out.
One of the owners said he developed the sauces and seasonings himself, and they’re made onsite. I will give him an A for creativity. He mentioned opening a southwest Little Rock location eventually.
The eatery also offers delivery and catering.
All American
Wings
Address: 9201 Maumelle Blvd. in North Little Rock and two locations in Little Rock
Hours: noon-8 p.m. Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday, noon-10 p.m. Saturday
Cuisine: Chicken wings, salads and sandwiches
Credit cards: AE, D, V, MC
Alcoholic beverages: Full bar
Wheelchair accessible: Yes
Carryout: Yes
(501) 771-2100
allamericanwings.com
Weekend, Pages 48 on 11/22/2012