In the garden

QI planted morning glory seeds (soaked as directed) in a container, got the trellis all painted and ready, and waited and waited. …. Nice green vine, but so far, only two blooms. One lasted about two days, the other was a one-day wonder. What went wrong? I expected that they would be all in bloom by now.

A My guess is you have given the plants too much care. Morning glories thrive in poor soil.

Given great garden soil and regular water and fertilizer, you get lush vines at the expense of flowers.

Consider that morning glories are also common weeds - and bloom all over with no care. Each flower only lasts one day, but if they are in free-blooming mode, you typically have enough blooms to last for months. On a positive note, some varieties do take longer than others to start blooming, so no more fertilizer, let them dry out (if the rains stop) and see what happens. There is still time to enjoy the flowers.

Q We built a house on raw land down in Hensley five years ago. Started the garden the next year with two plots about 25 by 25 feet that are adjacent to each other. The problem is grass, grass and more grass. We have dug and dug, pulled and pulled, but to no avail. Over the winter is there something I can do to help next spring? I have not used any chemicals (sprays) but am rapidly reaching the point where that might be the best way to deal with this. I feel like if I could ever get it out, I could keep it out.

AYou have several options that don’t include spraying. What is planted there now? If not much but grass, use a string trimmer or cut back the tops and remove them, then till the soil, saturate it and cover it with clear plastic - a process called solarization. You should be able to generate enough heat to kill the grass. We usually say to keep it covered for six to eight weeks from July to September, which is normally a hotter time than we’re seeing this year. In the fall, you can plant a fall garden or cover crop to compete with new grass or cover the beds with black plastic to keep anything that might try to grow smothered out. Clear plastic brings in radiant heat in hot months, and black obstructs light during winter.

Q We have a beautiful tomato garden. Today we discovered many of the tomatoes had worm holes. The worms are greenish-brown and are in the tomatoes. Is there a spray to eliminate these destructive pests?

A Once tomato fruit worms are inside the tomatoes, just get rid of the tomato - or cut off the side that is being eaten and use the other part quickly. There are some organic products containing BT (Dipel, Thuricide, etc.).

They can kill the young caterpillars if they eat the chemical. It doesn’t kill them overnight, but if you can catch them as they are getting started, such products can give control. The larger the caterpillars, the harder they are to kill.

Q I have a large patch of okra. I noticed some plants are turning yellow, with leaves curling down. Some plants have died. I’ve planted in the same place for the last four to five years.

Is there something in the soil causing this? Is it nematodes? Is there something I can do now to stop this?

A Inspect one of the plants that died. Pull it up and examine the roots. Nematodes are microscopic, wormlike creatures that enter a root and cause it to either stop growing or produce nodules - the root knot nematode. There are many types, and okra is susceptible to them. You would see stubby roots or small nodules on the roots if nematodes are the culprit.

How well-drained is your soil? Normally in July and August we are struggling to find water, but this year many parts of the state have had a fair amount of rainfall. Okra thrives in hot, dry conditions, so it is possible they are staying too wet. Investigate. If you can’t determine the cause, take a sample into your local county extension office. I will say that planting in the same spot year after year is not a recommended practice. I recommend a three-year crop rotation, if you can. Unfortunately, if nematodes are to blame, you don’t have many options for control other than soil solarization, which will need to be done soon.

Janet Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at

jcarson@arkansasonline.com

HomeStyle, Pages 35 on 08/17/2013

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