Like every good angler, most roving diners have a story about the one that got away. Maybe it was a new flash in the pan that just didn’t get traction quickly enough. Maybe it was an institution that, owing to pressures of competition or changing ownership, couldn’t keep up with the times. They close, and all that’s left is painful reminiscence of how you never got a chance to try them out.
Rare, however, is the story of the one that got away and then came back, the shuttered eatery that suddenly becomes unshuttered again. But that is the case of Otter Creek institution Grampa’s Catfish, which reopened a couple of months back after around a year of being inactive.
The story, according to news reports following it last year, was that the family business, with locations in Little Rock and Sherwood (and franchises in Hot Springs and Georgia), opted to close Sherwood because of the rising price of catfish. Then Sherwood was reopened and Little Rock closed because the building was sold. Then both ended up closing. Now the Little Rock outlet, having landed in the hands of a man marrying into the family of the original, second-generation owners, is back up and running.
For me, that meant a chance to go fishing, so to speak, in a spot I’d somehow never hit up before despite its owners’ four decades in the business.
Grampa’s is not in a hard spot to find. Anyone who has ever sought to avoid the Interstate 30 and 430 interchange via Highway 5 has probably seen the sign for the place just south of Baseline Road. An entry off the highway feeds into a lot that’s a lot bigger than it looks from the street. The “parking around back” sign speaks truth.
Inside, the soaring frame of the roofline over the divided dining area gives an open feel and also offers ample room for all manner of aquatic-themed decoration, from nets and buoy lines to paddles and such. A dining companion and frequent Grampa’s visitor of old tells me this hasn’t changed much. He wasn’t so sure on my favorite touch: engine covers from outboard motors turned upside down and used as planters. Pinterest, take note. This is brilliant.
And speaking of brilliance, it probably takes no genius to deduce that the menu here is mostly about fish. However, it’s not all fish, and not all catfish at that.
Of course, the beloved Southern staple does get prominent billing, sold in meals of various sizes ranging from one to eight pieces. And in that same vein, the other longtime star of Grampa’s, chicken, can say much the same, being offered in meals of one to five pieces. Both are also offered as part of the special plate, a two-piece, one-side combo at a reduced price. It’s not stated directly, but the default setting here seems to be fried.
That deduction is based on a menu section noted as “the grill and things,” where the catfish and chicken show up again specifically noted as grilled. Here, too, are a couple of other kinds of grilled fish, namely tilapia and salmon. Shrimp, veggies and a pasta plate encompass the rest of “things.”
But other menu sections indicate further expansion of Grampa’s new offerings. A sandwich section has not just fish fillets, but also po’boys of fried shrimp and Cajun crawfish variety. Those shrimp are also available in plates all their own on the back of the menu, either in jumbo or bite-sized form. A little more browsing finds a few combo plates, including one with steak, and a selection of mostly fried appetizers with a few fun surprises like zucchini sticks, pickle chips and crawfish tails. That’s in addition to onion rings, potato skins and such.
“Wait,” says the catfish connoisseur. “What about the hush puppies? Grampa’s was known for those.”
And perhaps they still will be. I didn’t find them on the menu, but I did find them on the table. Our server — whose attentions were fantastic — had them out along with bowls of pickled green tomatoes even before the drinks were delivered. When they were gone, more came out.
I don’t know about you, but in my book that alone makes this a catch worth holding on to.
THE DISH
Grampa’s Special ($7.95)
When in a catfish restaurant, one should probably eat catfish, but I was feeling rebelious. I ordered the chicken version of the daily special, which included two fried tenders and a side (in my case, greens). Since the menu only went so far as to call the chicken “pieces,” I was a little surprised when they came out as large tenders, but the crispy, not-too-salty skin made these stand out. The greens had the right amount of vinegar without being overpowering and was a hearty portion. I’m not sure I’d make the drive from downtown just for this dish, but if you’re in the area, it’s a solid choice. (evz)
Grilled Catfish ($14.25)
I was a regular diner at Grampa’s before its break from the scene. I usually ordered the fried catfish and chicken. This time, I took advantage of the addition of the healthier grilled catfish. It was on point. The 10-ounce fillet was meaty and spiced to perfection with no fishy aftertaste. I picked greens and steamed vegetables for sides. The greens were decent; the vegetables were dry for my taste.
I also recommend the fried pickles to start. Another nice touch is complementary hush puppies and pickled green tomatoes. Our hush puppies weren’t piping hot but still good. The tomatoes were great and bottomless. The waitress gave me four cups. I will definitely be back to this place that is one of my favorite places to eat in southwest Little Rock. (no)
Bite-sized shrimp ($13.15)
Since others had the catfish bases covered, I opted for what I understand to be a new addition to the lineup: shrimp. And I’d argue the bite-sized label may be a bit of a misnomer. The shrimp were actually slightly bigger than that — and served up in abundance. A thick breading offered a reasonable crunch, offset by the plump but firm shrimp themselves (thankfully not mushy and overcooked, which is so easy to do). The plate came with two sides, and my choices were pinto beans and mac and cheese. No gripes with either, as the beans had a sort of spicy kick and the mac seemed to be served with real cheese. Though the price point seemed more suited to dinner than lunch, so too did the portions. Not that I had any trouble finishing it all, mind you. (sw)
IN A NUTSHELL
A longtime catfish operation that went dark for a year or so has resurfaced. Though still serving up fried catfish and chicken, more seafood options, grilled and otherwise, now complement the Southern staples.
Location: 9219 Stagecoach Road, Little Rock
Phone: (501) 407-0000
Web: N/A
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11 a.m. – 9 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.
Prices: $3.95 – $26.95
Alcohol: N/A
For more on food and drink in central Arkansas, check out Emily Van Zandt’s blog, Arkansas Bites, at arkansasbites.syncweekly.com.