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Thursday, April 26, 2018, 2:23 p.m.

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A more perfect onion soup

Few things are more promising than a pipinghot bowl of French onion soup placed before you on a brisk day, its fragrant liquid beneath a toasted raft topped with golden cheese that will soon be stringing from your mouth. How frustrating, then, to discover something skimpy, with bready mush and pale onions, devoid of flavor.

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