California's history of winemaking can be traced to the mid-18th century when Franciscan missionaries were growing grapes from vines believed to have arrived with the Spanish conquistadors via Mexico. These wines were primarily for sacramental purposes. It was in 1833 that French winemaker Jean Louis Vignes brought vines from his native Bordeaux to California, paving the way for California's booming wine industry. Readers might think the story would continue with the vines being planted in Napa or Sonoma but today's story has its roots in downtown Los Angeles.
I was honored to spend time with Santo Riboli when he visited Arkansas. Our conversations offered insights into the history and unique story of San Antonio Winery.
In 1910 Santo Cambianica (Riboli's great-uncle) left Italy for New York, then made his way across the country to pursue his American dream in California. Cambianica founded the San Antonio Winery in 1917 on Lamar Street in downtown Los Angeles, and it still sits in the same location.
But just as the winery was taking off, Congress passed the Volstead Act in 1919, also known as the National Prohibition Act. What saved the winery was the Archdiocese of Los Angeles' granting Cambianica permission to make wines for sacramental and ceremonial purposes and his strong relationship with the church.
During the 13 years of Prohibition, The San Antonio Winery was able to continue to operate as a supplier of altar wines.
In 1936 Cambianica's nephew, Stefano Riboli (Santo Riboli's father) apprenticed under his uncle. Cambianica passed away in 1956, leaving the business to Stefano Riboli and his wife, Maddalena.
Today the business not only thrives, it has grown to become a multigenerational operation with vineyards located in Paso Robles, Monterey and Napa Valley.
The company also imports Stella Rosa wines from Italy.
Despite the growth, the family still considers the original winery one of its proudest accomplishments.
Today, with more than 97 years of winemaking behind it, San Antonio is the last producing winery in downtown Los Angeles.
THE VALUES
2013 Stella Rosa Black, Italy (about $13 retail)
2013 Stella Rosa Peach, Italy (about $13 retail)
THE SPLURGES
2013 San Antonio Winery San Simeon Cabernet Sauvignon, California (about $29 retail)
2012 San Antonio Maddalena Cabernet Sauvignon, California (about $19 retail)
Lorri Hambuchen is a member of London's Institute of Wines and Spirits. Contact her at the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, Ark. 72203, or email:
uncorked@thewinectr.com
Food on 08/27/2014