Q. Thanks for the feedback on which shoes are right in which situations. My question today is back to loafers. They look great but they seem to fall apart on me or always look worn after short periods of time. I love quality clothes but can only afford to buy them occasionally. Do you have tips on how to make shoes last longer?
A. Here is my guess as to why your loafers do not hold up. As a guy who loves clothes, you are probably wearing fine-quality Italian loafers. If I am right, that might just be your problem.
When it comes to the life cycle of a leather shoe, the ones that last longest are often English made. They have a Goodyear welt (this has nothing to do with tires); the shoes are double-stitched where they attach to the sole. The part that you do not see, the second layer, molds to your foot and helps make the shoe comfortable. The benefits of a dress shoe made with Goodyear welt construction include being relatively waterproof by not allowing water to get into the insole, resulting in a firmer shoe, and the ease with which the sole can be replaced repeatedly, giving the shoe a life span of years, sometimes even decades. On the other hand, Italian and Spanish shoes are constructed differently. Not only are the soles much thinner, but the shoes have only one layer of leather that is folded over with single stitching that attaches the upper part to the bottom. Why this difference? Perhaps because Italy and Spain have tropical weather, whereas London is a walking city. It rains; it’s cold; people walk everywhere.
New shoes always look good. But when shoes get a lot of wear, they will need to be resoled. The process of resoling requires stretching the leather to put in the new stitches. Stretching more delicate leather may result in cracks along the edge of the sole, and then sometimes the shoes feel a little tight. This is especially true if you wear anything wider than a D width. Most elegant Italian and Spanish shoes are made of buttery, supple leather. They are not really designed for frequent wear. I’m not saying you should avoid buying them, but you should know they are not as durable. The multiple layers in Goodyear welt construction make for a sturdy shoe that requires less maintenance and holds up longer. Some of the better American manufacturers, such as Allen Edmonds, also use Goodyear welt construction.
When you find a pair of shoes made of top-quality leather with faultless workmanship, don’t be surprised by the price tag. It can be shockingly high. Unfortunately, paying a lot for shoes is part of the game of dressing well. Not the place to economize, it makes sense to “Buy fewer, and buy better.” While these days, price and quality are not always exactly correlated, still, in the long run, good shoes should last 10 years or longer, if they are well-made and fit you well. Here are some tips that will help.
When shopping for shoes, pay attention to the time of day. Don’t shop late in the day when you have been on your feet for hours. And get yourself measured; be sure you are buying the right size for that specific model and style.
A little-known tip: With certain shoes, you should consider going a half-size down. Dress shoes should fit right if worn with a thin dress sock. Shoes should be “snug,” but never tight or uncomfortable. Leather changes and relaxes. If you buy your exact size (especially in soft leather), you might later find you need to put in an insole, or you might have to wear a heavier sock to keep the shoe from feeling too loose.
When shopping in a reliable store, have a conversation with the salesman. He should know which manufacturer makes which model. His product knowledge can guide you. Some stores that sell top of-the-line shoes, such as Paul Stuart, have a 14-day return policy. Wear your shoes at home in a carpeted area for several days, then if they turn out to be too big, exchange them for the next half-size down.
Having invested a considerable amount in shoes, here are a few ways to make them last.
Go that important extra step and buy a set of shoe trees made of untreated, preferably cedar, wood. They, too, are not cheap. In the shoe industry, the expression is “Buy once, cry once.” Right after you come in the door, when your shoes come off, put the shoe trees in immediately.
Shoe trees do three things: maintain the shape of the shoes; absorb moisture from rain and sweat; and deodorize your shoes.
Never rush the process of drying wet shoes by placing them in a warm place, such as on a radiator. Just put in the shoe trees and wait.
Frequent polishing is another essential. It helps keep the leather supple.
The last tip is to rotate your shoes so you don’t wear them two days in a row. Shoes need to air out. Allowing them to “rest” a few days between wearings increases their life. This is another reason for expanding your shoe wardrobe to the extent your budget allows.
These guidelines will guarantee years of top-rate condition for any fine shoes - whether they are from Italy, England or the United States.
Send male fashion queries to lois.fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile, Pages 44 on 02/02/2014