I don’t remember much of my sixth birthday. I would have been in kindergarten, so I’m sure it included a cartoon character-shaped cake and tears.
What it definitely didn’t include? A full makeover. Though judging by pictures of my bangs at the time, I probably could have used one.
But for ZaZa Fine Salad + Wood Oven Pizza Co., a renovation is exactly what a sixth birthday brings. After years in the Heights churning out gelato, salads, sandwiches and (obviously) pizza, ZaZa closed for a whirlwind two-week facelift that included new decor, new menu items and an updated list of local vendors supplying their goods.
We stoppped by for lunch twice after ZaZa’s reopening Feb. 7 to see what the renovations were all about.
What’s new
Let’s get to the most important part first: the menu. If you’re just a casual ZaZa fan, you’ll likely walk into the restaurant and not really notice the change. There for lunch several times a week? Then you can probably pinpoint the new dishes. New to the lengthy house salad lineup are the Heights Chicken Salad and the Sesame Ahi Tuna. The tuna was the salad of the month in January and features seared sushi-grade ahi tuna, avocado, cucumber, edamame, green onion, lemon, wasabi peas, toasted sesame seeds and a ponzu vinaigrette over a bed of romaine and field greens. The chicken salad mixes a housemade chicken salad of roast chicken, currants, pecans and balsamic vinaigrette with grapes, strawberries and dried cranberries on a pile of field greens and spinach. The pizza list also has new options, including the 3 Little Pigs (topped with Petit Jean bacon, Petit Jean ham, pepperoni, mozzarella and tomato sauce) and the Pesto-Cherry Tomato (topped with mozzarella, basil, cherry tomatoes and housemade pesto).
What’s nixed
Of course, adding to the menu meant something had to give. And in the case of ZaZa’s Little Rock location, that was the sandwich selection. The menu used to feature several oven-roasted sandwiches, including an excellent ham and cheese version. They’re still on the menu at the Conway location, however, if you’re dying to have one again. The menu also included wings at one time, but those are gone, too. As the name implies, ZaZa has always been focused on pizza and salad. Now they’re are even more so.
What’s that smell
Confession: When I first walked into the newly renovated space, I wasn’t even aware that they had been closed for a makeover. Maybe I was still bleary-eyed from a busy morning, but I didn’t even really notice the change in decor. Everything — tables, counters, kitchen — is in the same spot, but the colors, signage and seating have all been swapped out. The first thing that jolted me into realizing something was new? The smell. Cut logs are piled up to the ceiling on rugged metal shelving on two walls. The smell of the wood just heightens the wood-oven pizza smell that already permeated the place, giving the restaurant the cozy feel of sitting outside as someone is getting a campfire going. It’s subtle but nice. Subtlety is the theme of much of the makeover, which swapped the restaurant’s brightly colored plastic chairs and accents in favor of mellow wood tones and more chalkboard decor. Be sure to scramble upstairs for a look at the new “Heights” logo on the back wall.
What worked
ZaZa’s food has been consistently tasty, and the food that we sampled post-renovations was just that. The Pesto-Cherry Tomato pizza was far and away my favorite of the new menu items, with the basil and pesto combining for a fresh kick, countered by the creamy mozzarella. The cherry tomatoes (halved for easy consumption) were remarkably fresh and flavorful. The 3 Little Pigs pizza was also a hit with the meat-lovers on staff, with the bacon lending a salty, crunchy texture that made it stand apart from other meat-lovers options. Both pizzas came on ZaZa’s traditional chewy, slightly charred crust, which managed to be soft without getting soggy.
What didn’t
Be sure to check out The Dish for a full rundown of eats from the rest of the Sync staff. While the majority of the dishes we tried were a hit, the one I wouldn’t go back for was the Heights Chicken Salad. Part of it is explained simply by a bias against sweet/savory salad combinations. But the real kicker was the balsamic vinaigrette in the chicken salad. The bitter tang of the dressing overwhelmed the diced chicken. A little less dressing and a little more chicken would have helped the balance here.
Final verdict
ZaZa is still the ZaZa you remember, just a little more subdued in look and focused in taste. The salads are still piled high with enough for two meals, the pizzas are still cooked over an 800-degree fire and the gelato is still the worst-kept secret in Little Rock desserts. Be sure to check out the new menus for a map of the farms the restaurant works with in sourcing ingredients, including Laughing Stock Farm in Sheridan, Freckle Face Farm in McRae and Armstead Mountain Farm in Pope County.
THE DISH
Heights Chicken Salad ($11.50)
It’s hard to beat a ZaZa’s salad for lunch (and there is usually enough left over for dinner, too). This one, though, may have become my go-to with the mix of roasted chicken, currants, pecans and balsamic vinaigrette with strawberries and dried cranberries resting on a bed of field greens and lettuce. I love the different textures — the crunch of the nuts and the fruit mixed together — and the tastes blend well, too. The chicken was tasty, and the spinach and greens, fresh. I haven’t had a better salad in Little Rock. (no)
Sesame Ahi Tuna Salad ($13.50)
Usually, I’m not a salad guy. And certainly not a $14-and-change salad guy. But this delicious blend of spring mix greens with romaine and avocado, cucumber, edamame and green onion is worth the price of an entree. And not just because of the mingling of vegetables and fruits. No, this flavorful salad is worth it because of the plentiful, seared ahi tuna with its buttery texture and rich taste, and the ponzu vinaigrette with its savory blend of ginger, soy and more. Topped with wasabi peas — a combination of a strong, biting flavor and crunchy texture — and ZaZa’s priciest salad is worth every dollar. (ss)
Pesto-Cherry Tomato Pizza ($12.25)
Topped with cherry tomatoes (though these seemed more grape in shape), mozzarella, pesto and basil, the deliciously nutty pesto really takes the center stage here. The tomato halves were juicy and fresh, like they were thrown on near the end of the pie’s bake, and that wood-fired crust is just as smoky and chewy (read: awesome) as ever. This pizza seems like such a ZaZa classic that I can’t believe it wasn’t already on the menu. (sm)
IN A NUTSHELL
With a quick makeover under its belt, ZaZa is more focused than ever on its wood-fired pizzas and heaping salads. Expect the same fresh, flavorful favorites you’ve been enjoying, with a slightly more local focus.
Location: 5600 Kavanaugh Blvd., Little Rock
Phone: (501) 661-9292
Attire: Casual
Alcohol: Beer and wine
Reservations: No
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday–Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday-Saturday
Prices: $9.75-$13.50 for salads, $10.50-$14.50 for pizzas
Kid-friendly: Yep