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Age, job, preference dictate jean length in work situations

Q. I have a question about lengths of jeans, particularly in work situations. I'm in real estate, and I find myself going to appointments more and more with a blazer and jeans and some nice brown shoes. I'm typically a 33/30, which is not that common a length. Many of the places will shorten the jeans for me, but even with this option I still don't know the proper length, particularly with the variety of leg styles. I usually try them on with dress shoes, but recently I like folding them up at the bottom (a trend).

Do you think this is appropriate? And if not, what is the correct length(s)?

A. It does not really matter what I think is appropriate. What matters is what works for you -- at your age and in your line of work. Obviously, different work environments call for different clothing approaches. Dressing for work in real estate is not as formal as dressing for a corporate or other office job. You sound knowledgeable enough to recognize what are the acceptable options in your field. Still, you are wise to seek some solid information, and I will try to give it to you.

These days everyone is wearing jeans a little shorter. You are right. There are two different ways to deal with the length.

Either have them shortened or roll them. Each of these calls for a slightly different length.

If a man is having his jeans shortened with a finished hem, they should ideally be touching the shoe top with only a tiny "break." The denim should not be "stacking" (that is, creasing because it is too long). This is the direction a somewhat traditional dresser might want to take when wearing a "blazer and nice brown shoes." It is dressier than the folded-up bottoms; it is also a bit more mature looking.

Now, if you are a younger guy who likes to follow the trend with more casual turned-up bottoms, then the way to go would be to fold them up with a couple of turns (so the selvage does not show and the underside of the fabric does). This rolled look is worn shorter than the hemmed version so that the ankle shows. It could be too informal for many business situations. If it is not quite right for your line of work, but you like the look, you can certainly wear it for casual, social occasions.

A lot of guys like the shorter, rolled bottom so they can show off their socks or show that they are not wearing socks. These days, funky socks and going sockless are very popular looks. You have the option of wearing casual shoes such as driving shoes, moccasins, boat shoes, the new not-quite-a-sneaker-and-not-quite-a-dress-shoe from Clark, loafers, or your dressier brown laced shoes.

And you are also right that there are different widths for jeans. A slightly fuller leg needs to be a bit longer, but the newer (younger) look has a skinnier leg, and these are worn shorter. Another factor to consider: A lot depends upon the "wash" of the denim. That is, the darker the denim, the more formal; the more washed or faded the jean, the more casual.

Incidentally, I like that you mentioned trying your jeans on with dress shoes. That shows you understand the basic premise. When you go shopping, if possible, wear to the store the type of shoe you will be wearing with the garment. If you have gone shopping wearing shoes that have a slightly different heel height than the pair you would wear with the garment, ask the salesman for a pair from the store's stock to wear during the fitting. It helps to guarantee that the tailor will be able to measure accurately and you will achieve the look you are aiming for.

Send men's fashion queries to Male Call.

Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

High Profile on 06/08/2014

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