UNCORKED

Pinot gris distinct from pinot grigio

There are few grape varietals more consistently snubbed by consumers than pinot grigio. It isn’t that they aren’t drinking it, but many generally won’t admit to the relationship.

No matter your opinion (or fear to admit you adore this grape), pinot grigio has something going on considering last year it ranked third in sales by varietal, up 11 percent, surpassing merlot and pinot noir. This wine has an easy drinking style, clean taste, light body and it’s easy to pronounce.

Further clouding this grape’s image is its name. Pinot grigio and pinot gris are made from the same grape, but each wine is quite different. One grape, two different names and two different styles.

The richest, most exuberant styles are usually found in Italy’s Trentino-Alto Adige and Friuli regions. These wines, often known by the name pinot grigio, tend to be spicy on the nose with a mouthwatering acidity.

The pinot gris has found its expression in France’s Alsace region, Oregon and some parts of California. These wines are generally medium-bodied with more pronounced fruit with the same zippy acidity. The better versions express subtle layers of apples, honeydew, honey, pears and a hint of the spice you find in the Italian version.

THE VALUES

2011 Candoni Pinot Grigio, Italy (about $12 retail)

2011 A to Z Pinot Gris, Oregon (about $14 retail)

2011 Kings Ridge Pinot Gris, Oregon (about $14 retail)

THE SPLURGES

2011 Trimbach Pinot Gris, France (about $28 retail)

2011 Adelsheim Pinot Gris, Oregon (about $20 retail)

2011 Elk Cove Pinot Gris, Oregon (about $18 retail)

Lorri Hambuchen is a member of London’s Institute of Wines and Spirits. Contact her at the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, Ark. 72203, or email:

uncorked@lorrihambuchen.com

Food, Pages 33 on 03/12/2014

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