Multitalented eggs take center stage in dinner menu

Moroccan Merguez Ragout With Poached Eggs is rich and flavorful.
Moroccan Merguez Ragout With Poached Eggs is rich and flavorful.

The simple egg. It may be the most versatile ingredient in your kitchen.

Eggs are equally at home for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. They stand on their own and play well with others.

They hold it together in meatloaves and casseroles. They defy gravity in meringues and souffles. They lift cakes. They are the lusciousness behind mayonnaise and hollandaise. They are the rich, velvety mouth-feel of custard and mousse.

And when it comes to dinner entrees, they may be the most overlooked.

They're readily available, inexpensive and chock-full of nutrients including protein and vitamins A, B and D. Egg yolks get a bad rap for their fat and cholesterol content, but the yolk contains about half of an egg's protein and virtually all of its vitamins.

Sure, breakfast for dinner is common on dinner tables and in diners across America, but what about savory dishes where eggs are the main attraction or when an egg takes the dish from ho-hum to heavenly?

Note: Most of these recipes cook the eggs to the point where the whites are firm and set, but the yolks are soft or runny. Uncooked eggs sometimes contain salmonella bacteria that can cause serious illness. If you are concerned about eating undercooked eggs, cook the eggs longer than the recipe indicates or use in-shell pasteurized eggs such as Safest Choice brand.

Shirred Eggs With Vegetable Hash and Smoked Cheddar

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 small onion, diced

1 medium to large sweet potato, peeled and diced

1 medium to large russet potato, peeled and diced

1 medium carrot, peeled and diced

1 medium zucchini or yellow squash, diced

1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage

1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne) or to taste

Kosher salt

4 ounces coarsely grated smoked cheddar, divided use

4 eggs, at room temperature

Ground black pepper

Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Heat the oil and butter in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until the butter melts and the foam subsides. Add the vegetables, garlic and the sage -- the skillet will be very full -- and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender and golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat and season with cayenne and salt.

Level the surface of the hash and sprinkle with half of the cheese. Then crack the eggs over, leaving space between each egg. Season each egg with salt and black pepper and bake until the whites are beginning to set, about 3 minutes. Sprinkle the remaining cheddar evenly over the eggs and hash and continue baking until cheese is melted and eggs reach desired doneness.

Makes 4 servings.

Rice and Beans With Fried Eggs

3/4 cup long-grain white rice

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided use

1 small yellow onion, finely diced

1/2 medium red bell pepper, finely diced

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 cup canned tomato sauce

1 (15 1/2-ounce) can black beans, rinsed

3 tablespoons Salsa Lizano, store-bought or homemade (recipe follows)

Ground black pepper

8 eggs

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Combine the rice, a big pinch of salt and 1 1/2 cups water in a 3-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stir once, reduce heat to low, cover, and cook 20 minutes. Do not remove lid or peek during cooking. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper, garlic and a pinch of salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened, about 3 minutes. Add the cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato sauce and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the beans and 1 cup of water and simmer until the liquid reduces to the level of the beans, about 5 minutes.

Add the rice to the beans and mix well. Stir in the Salsa Lizano and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, swirling the pan to coat evenly. Gently crack the eggs into the pan. Reduce heat to medium-low. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook to desired doneness; for firm whites and runny yolks, about 3 minutes. Separate the eggs with the edge of a spatula.

To serve, put a heaping spoonful of the rice and beans on a plate and slide 2 eggs on top. Sprinkle with the cilantro.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe adapted from Fine Cooking

Salsa Lizano is a Costa Rican condiment similar to hot sauce but without the intense vinegary heat.

Lizano-Style Salsa

2 dried red chiles, such as guajillo

1 1/2 cups water

1/2 small yellow onion, roughly chopped

1 (4-inch) piece thick carrot, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons fine salt

2 teaspoons molasses

2 teaspoons vegetable broth base or powdered bouillon, optional

Remove the stems of the chiles and then cut the chiles lengthwise so they open flat. Remove the seeds and fibrous connective material attaching the seeds to the chiles.

Heat a small (6- to 8-inch) cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet over medium heat. Lay the chile pieces in the pan and toast, turning after about 2 minutes. Add the water and simmer 5 minutes. Remove the chile pieces from the pan and place in blender. Measure out 1 cup of the chile-infused water and add it to the blender with the chiles.

Add the onion, carrot, sugar, lime juice, vinegar, cumin, salt, molasses and bouillon, if using. Blend until smooth. Taste for seasoning.

Sauce will keep in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Makes about 2 cups.

Recipe adapted from thekitchn.com

Moroccan Merguez Ragout With Poached Eggs

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, finely diced

4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1/2 pound merguez or other spicy link sausage, sliced 1/2-inch thick

1 tablespoon ras el hanout (see notes)

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 (15-ounce) cans fire-roasted tomatoes

4 to 6 eggs

1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro, stems included

2 tablespoons harissa (see notes)

Warm crusty bread, for serving

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until golden. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Add the sausage and saute about 5 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium-low and add the ras el hanout, smoked paprika and salt. Stir to combine and cook for a minute to lightly toast the spices. Add the tomatoes. Increase heat to medium and cook until the mixture has thickened slightly, about 5 minutes.

Crack the eggs over the mixture, cover and cook until the whites set, but the yolks are still soft.

Divide the eggs and ragout among four warm bowls using a large spoon. Serve with a sprinkling of cilantro and a teaspoon of harissa.

Serve immediately with crusty bread.

Makes 4 servings.

Notes: Ras el hanout is a spice blend common in North African cuisine. Look for it at specialty stores, or make your own.

Homemade Ras el Hanout: Combine 2 tablespoons ground ginger, 1 tablespoon ground cumin, 2 teaspoons ground coriander, 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, 2 teaspoons ground nutmeg, 2 teaspoons ground allspice, 2 teaspoons ground cardamom, 1 1/2 teaspoons ground black pepper, 1 1/2 teaspoons turmeric, 15 saffron threads, 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves and 1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne). Makes about 1/2 cup.

Harissa is a North African hot sauce. Can substitute another thick hot sauce such as chile paste or sriracha.

Recipe adapted from food52.com

If you're going to splurge with a fried-egg-topped burger, we say go all out and really take the indulgent plunge.

Bacon Cheeseburgers With Fried Egg

1 1/2 pounds ground beef (see note)

3 tablespoons Lawry's Signature Steakhouse marinade OR your favorite burger seasoning

Salt and ground black pepper

4 slices cheddar cheese

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 eggs

4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired

Desired condiments such a mayonnaise, mustard and/or ketchup

4 slices thick-cut bacon, cooked until crisp and drained

Combine the beef and marinade mix well, being careful to not over-work the meat.

Divide and shape beef into 4 patties. Season on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat grill or griddle to medium. Cook patties 5 to 6 minutes on each side, or to desired doneness. Top each patty with a slice of cheese during the last minute or so.

In 1 large or 2 medium skillets (nonstick is recommended), heat oil over medium heat. Crack each egg into a small dish being careful not to break the yolk, then slide the egg into the pan. Season each egg with salt and pepper; cover and cook 2 to 3 minutes or until whites are opaque. Carefully transfer each egg to a burger patty.

Spread buns with desired toppings. Arrange bacon on bottom of bun, then top with egg-topped burger patty. Close with top bun. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Note: We used ground round.

The combination of creamy mozzarella cheese, robust tomato sauce, silky egg yolk and fresh asparagus on this pizza is absolutely delicious.

This recipe calls for making your own pizza crust, but if you prefer, refrigerated or premade pizza crust will work, too.

Asparagus and Egg Pizza

2 to 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, divided use

1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast

3/4 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup very warm water OR beer (120 to 130 degrees)

3 tablespoons olive oil

Cornmeal

8 to 10 spears asparagus

1/4 cup jarred pizza sauce such as Classico Fire-Roasted Tomato

1 1/2 to 2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese, divided use

Prosciutto, cooked and crumbled bacon or sliced pepperoni

2 eggs

Combine 1 cup of the flour, the yeast and salt in a large bowl. Add the very warm water (or beer) and oil; mix until well blended, about 1 minute. Gradually add enough remaining flour to make a soft dough. Knead dough on a floured surface, adding additional flour if necessary, until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. Transfer dough to an oiled bowl, cover and let rise for 1 to 2 hours.

Heat oven to 500 degrees. Lightly dust a pizza stone or baking sheet with cornmeal.

Shape dough into 12-inch circle and place on prepared pizza stone. Prick dough with the tines of a fork. Let dough rest while you prepare the remaining ingredients.

Holding the asparagus spears on each end, gently bend the spears until they break. Discard tough end. If spears are very thick, cut them in half lengthwise to create thinner spears. Then cut all of the spears into 21/2- to 3-inch lengths; set aside.

Spread pizza dough with sauce. Top sauce with half of the cheese. Arrange asparagus and meat over cheese. Top with remaining cheese. Bake 6 to 8 minutes, or until cheese is melted and crust is beginning to brown. Gently crack the eggs into small bowls or ramekins, making sure you don't break the yolks. Pour eggs, evenly spaced, over pizza. Return pizza to oven and continue baking until egg whites are set and crust is golden brown, about 8 minutes more.

Makes 1 (12-inch) pizza.

Food on 03/19/2014

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