El Dorado deli a divine find

A hearty turnip greens soup is a popular favorite at La Bella Gourmet Gifts and Delicatessen in El Dorado.
A hearty turnip greens soup is a popular favorite at La Bella Gourmet Gifts and Delicatessen in El Dorado.

EL DORADO -- A green flier taped to the glass door, touting the return of turnip greens soup, caught my eye.

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Arkansas Democrat-Gazette

Homemade apple cake is a moist and tasty conclusion to a meal at La Bella Gourmet Gifts and Delicatessen.

Despite my lack of fondness for cooked greens, the photo of a bowl of the soup brimming with Great Northern beans and chock-full of sausage and ham was undeniably appealing.

La Bella Gourmet Gifts and Delicatessen

Address: 101 E. Main St., El Dorado

Hours: 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Tuesday; 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday

Cuisine: Cajun, Italian, grinders, salads, pizza

Credit Cards: AE, D, V, MC

Alcoholic beverages No

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes

(870) 862-4335

labellagourmet.net

So what to do? Clearly a no-brainer ... walk in to La Bella Gourmet Gifts and Delicatessen and order it.

Inside the spacious storefront on the downtown square, a row of olive green booths is on a wall to the right. The bulk of the store is taken up by an array of gourmet gifts -- spices, jams, relishes, olive oils, teas, coffees, condiments, mixes -- and chefs' tools and accessories. Fancy an electric smoker? Need an attachment for your commercial-grade range to boil 30 gallons of water in a pot?

However, we were on a mission, and the smells from the delicatessen's kitchen -- hints of Cajun spices, garlic and more -- wafting through the air kept us focused. My companion and I planted ourselves at a table and a friendly server brought menus. La Bella's eat-in area is lunch counter/diner style, with booths and tables and chairs. It is fast food-like as it uses mostly disposable dishes and utensils.

But the resemblance to fast food stops there.

Our server returned with water, soda and a wonderful iced tea ($1, $1.50) and, before she could ask if we were ready to order, the words turnip greens soup ($4.25, $5.60) flew out of my mouth. The server smiled and said, "You'll love it."

She was right. The hearty soup, loaded with thin slices of sausage, cubed ham, Great Northern beans and, yes, turnip greens, was delicious. Tastes of onion, celery, and red and green bell peppers also were evident. A small order of red beans and rice ($4.20, $7.15) also impressed with its well-balanced seasonings and smooth, hearty texture.

My companion's slice of combination pizza ($3.25) was tasty, but nearly cold. The deli offers whole stone baked pizzas priced by the number of ingredients ($10.75-$22.75, $3.50-$4.75 personal size) plus combo and Southwest chicken versions ($17.95, $22.75).

Spaghetti and meatballs ($4.20, $7.15) was one of four Italian entrees. The meatballs could have used a little more garlic for my taste, but the pasta was cooked just right. The spaghetti was accompanied by the deli's tasty homemade bread.

There's more where that came from, as in more than two dozen grinders ($3.25 for 3-inch, $6.40 for 6-inch, $12.60 for 12-inch) to choose from. Be aware, though, the whole grinders (submarine sandwiches) weigh 2 pounds, so if you want to explore more dishes on the menu, order carefully. The expansive list of deli options includes Genoa salami, boiled ham and an exceptional capicola, a thinly sliced Italian pork that is often served on antipasto plates. The capicola (also spelled capocollo) was tender and flavorful.

When we stopped by La Bella, it was the tail end of crawfish season, so we seized the opportunity to enjoy the deli's delish crawfish etouffee ($4.20, $7.15). Well seasoned with Cajun spices and served piping hot on a bed of fluffy white rice, the thick etouffee had a generous amount of tender crawfish amid the vegetables and brown roux. The menu also lists another Cajun standard: jambalaya ($4.20, $7.15).

Several salads ($3.95-$6.40) and nachos ($3.45-$6.40) also are available.

Dessert was about the last thing on my mind, but homemade apple cake ($3.25) -- moist and flavorful and mostly eaten later that day -- proved to be irresistible. Chocolate cake and cheesecake ($3.25) were also available.

With 28 years of business, La Bella Gourmet Gifts and Delicatessen clearly is doing something very right with its food. And the proof is in the eating.

Weekend on 10/30/2014

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