Q I live in Fayette-ville. Many homeowners and landscapers here maintain thick mulch piles surrounding the base of their trees. Am I imagining things or does piling mulch up around tree trunks stunt tree growth and cause disease and decay? If so, is there a particular way the mulch should be removed to prevent additional tree damage, or can the mulch pile be removed all at once, exposing the tree trunk that's been covered for a long time?
A This practice is called volcano mulching, and it is bad for trees. Piling up mulch along the trunk holds in too much moisture and heat, which can result in the tree trying to grow roots in the mulch pile. Over time, it can cause the trunk to decay. These large piles also can harbor small rodents that will feed on the trunk while staying comfortable in the mulch pile. A two- to three-inch layer of mulch is all that is needed, with a slight air pocket next to the trunk of the tree. I would remove the pile all at one time immediately.
Q When is the best time to move or thin lycoris? I have the pink trumpets and the reddish spider lily type.
A Lycoris are commonly called "surprise lilies" or "naked ladies." The pink naked ladies are Lycoris squamigera and the red surprise lilies are Lycoris radiata. The pink ones have foliage that emerged a month or so ago and will grow for another month and then begin to yellow and die back. About a month later, the naked stems (without leaves) will emerge, and the flowers will bloom. The red forms produce flowers first, in the fall, and then foliage. The foliage remains all winter and dies in late winter to early spring. The only time you can successfully move the bulbs is either as the foliage begins to yellow and die back or as the flowers fade. I will warn you that they can refuse to bloom for a year after transplant, but they are tough plants and should be with you for years to come.
Q I live in west Little Rock. This weed has just started growing in my bermuda-grass lawn. Not sure what it is, but how do I kill it?
A The reader sent in a photo of henbit. I am sure it is covered in purple flowers about now. Henbit is in the mint family and is a cool-season weed. This annual weed germinated last fall and put on rapid growth with warmer weather, which produces blooms and seeds for next year. It dies after setting seeds. It can be killed with a broadleaf weed killer, but it is nearing the end of its growing season. I would try to keep the weeds mowed to prevent seed set, and I would consider applying a pre-emergent herbicide next fall.
Q The leaves on my tropical hibiscus have suddenly started turning yellow and falling off. It is full of buds, which open beautifully. I don't want to lose it. Please tell me what I can do to save it. I have kept it in a sunny window all winter and have enjoyed quite a few blooms.
A I don't think you are in danger of losing the plant. It is shedding old foliage. Evergreen plants do lose leaves, but typically the older ones. Sometimes the leaves turn dramatic shades before falling. Move it outside later in April, and when you do, give it a haircut, cutting it back by at least half. If you don't, you won't see much new growth, and then you'll get fewer flowers. If you want to enjoy the flowers already in buds, cut back half of the branches, staggering the selection, and when that half starts putting on more buds, cut back the other half. Repotting will also encourage new growth.
Q Would you please suggest a summer blooming small perennial plant or bush that would need minimal care for the entrance to a subdivision? The area gets full sun and has an irrigation system.
A For perennials there are numerous long-season bloomers that are tough. Echinacea or purple coneflower, gaillardia or blanket flower, butterfly weed, milkweed and gaura are all summer blooming, full-sun plants. To add to the color palette heading into fall, add some dwarf Joe Pye weed, goldenrod and asters. Some small shrubs for heat tolerance to consider are butterfly bush or buddleia, abelia, ninebark or summer-blooming spirea.
Janet B. Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at
jcarson@arkansasonline.com
HomeStyle on 04/04/2015