Soup right off the vine

Five versions of tomato soup can the can and use produce fresh from the garden

Tuscan White Bean and Tomato Soup gets a drizzle of olive oil just before serving.
Tuscan White Bean and Tomato Soup gets a drizzle of olive oil just before serving.

CLARIFICATION: The original version of the recipe for Roasted Tomato Basil Soup called for 1 cup lightly packed basil leaves. We tested the recipe with and without the basil. We liked it better without the basil; however, the name of the recipe was not changed to reflect this preference.

Most of my favorite recipes for tomato soup call for canned tomatoes, which is a good thing in January when I'm in the mood for tomato soup and grilled cheese. But in the summertime when tomatoes are ripe for the picking, reaching for a can of tomatoes feels wrong.

photo

Roasted Tomato Basil Soup is slightly smoky with a deep tomato flavor.

photo

Tuscan White Bean and Tomato Soup is topped with cheesy, garlicky croutons.

I think it's a shame to eat tomato soup during the winter only. If the idea of hot soup doesn't appeal to you on a warm day, consider serving the soup slightly warm rather than steaming hot.

Using the following conversions, it isn't difficult to make tomato soup from fresh tomatoes, even when the original recipe calls for canned.

Roma tomatoes, also known as plum tomatoes, with their meaty texture, are a good option, but any variety -- as long is it isn't too juicy -- will work. For a deeper tomato flavor, considering using a combination of varieties.

• 1 (14 1/2-ounce) can tomatoes with liquid = about 2 cups chopped tomatoes

• 1 (28-ounce) ounce can tomatoes with liquid = about 2 pounds fresh

• 2 cups diced fresh tomatoes = about 12 ounces

This tomato puree is a bit thinner than the commercial variety, so you may find soups require longer simmering to thicken.

Homemade Tomato Puree

6 to 8 pounds ripe tomatoes, preferably Roma, washed and cored, peeled if desired

Coarsely chop the tomatoes, and transfer to a 6-quart saucepan. Cook tomatoes over medium heat until softened, about 10 minutes. Strain tomatoes through a food mill or ricer using the largest holes that will still catch the seeds. Let cool; then transfer to glass or plastic containers and refrigerate for 5 days or freeze for up to 1 year.

Makes about 5 pints.

Recipe adapted from Fine Cooking

In the summer of 1990 I lived with the Lagler family near the village of Berchtesgaden, Germany, in the Bavarian Alps. Of the many delicious meals we ate together, Mrs. Lagler's tomato soup remains one of my favorites.

Mrs. Lagler's Tomato Soup

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups tomato puree OR tomato juice

2 cups water

1 bay leaf

Salt and ground black pepper to taste

In a skillet, cook onion in butter until translucent; add flour and cook until foamy. Add tomato juice, water, bay leaf, salt and pepper; simmer 10 minutes. Remove bay leaf. Serve over rice or egg noodles.

Makes 2 to 4 servings.

Using fresh and roasted tomatoes gives this soup a deep tomato flavor that isn't too heavy.

Roasted Tomato Basil Soup

21/2 pounds Roma tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise

3 cloves garlic, minced, divided use

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided use

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 medium onion, chopped

Generous pinch red pepper flakes

4 cups vegetable broth

2 cups diced fresh tomatoes OR 1 (141/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes

Heat oven to 400 degrees.

Arrange the Roma tomatoes skin side down on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle tomatoes with 1/3 of the minced garlic, and drizzle with half of the olive oil. Season with salt and ground black pepper. Roast 45 minutes.

In a large stockpot, heat the remaining oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in the remaining garlic and the red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes more. Stir in the broth and diced tomatoes and roasted tomatoes. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes.

Use an immersion blender to puree the soup in the stockpot or, working in batches, transfer soup to a food processor or blender to blend. The soup should be smooth, with a few tomato chunks. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve warm.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Recipe adapted from Jenny Garcia from Santa Rosa, Calif. via The Baltimore Sun

White beans give this tomato soup body and protein, while cheesy croutons provide crunch, making this an ideal main-dish soup.

Tuscan White Bean and Tomato Soup

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling, divided use

1 large onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, smashed, divided use

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 pounds fresh tomatoes, chopped

2 (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

3 cups vegetable broth

Water

1 sprig fresh rosemary

Pinch crushed red pepper flakes

Ground black pepper

4 cups cubed ciabatta bread (about 4 ounces)

1/4 cup shredded mozzarella cheese (about 2 ounces)

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the onion, 2 cloves of the garlic and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, 1 minute. Add the chopped tomatoes, all of the beans, the broth, 1 cup water, rosemary sprig, crushed red pepper flakes and a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer 20 minutes.

Remove and discard rosemary. Using an immersion blender, or working in batches, transfer the soup to a blender and puree until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Return to the pot and cover to keep warm.

Heat oven to 400 degrees.

Mince the remaining clove of garlic.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat; add the minced garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in the bread cubes, stirring to thoroughly coat bread. Transfer bread cubes, and any unabsorbed oil to a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle bread with salt, black pepper and mozzarella. Bake 8 to 10 minutes or until croutons are golden.

Serve soup topped with croutons and a drizzle of olive oil.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe adapted from Food Network

This version transforms grilled-cheese sandwiches into croutons, for the ultimate grilled cheese and tomato soup pairing.

Tomato Soup With Melted-Cheese Croutons

4 teaspoons finely chopped fresh basil

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons butter, plus more for croutons

1 onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 pounds peeled and cored fresh Roma tomatoes, pureed

2 cups chicken broth

6 tablespoons heavy cream

4 slices white sandwich bread

2 ounces sharp cheddar, sliced

In a small bowl, combine the basil, thyme and a pinch of salt; set aside.

In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the 2 tablespoons butter. Add the onion, carrot, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper. Cook, stirring, until vegetables soften and onion begins to color, about 10 minutes.

Stir in tomato paste and sugar, then add the pureed tomatoes and chicken broth. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, 35 to 40 minutes.

Remove from heat and, using an immersion blender or working in batches in a traditional blender, puree soup until smooth. Return to low heat. Stir in cream and keep warm over very low heat.

For the croutons: Spread both sides of each slice of bread with butter. Make two "sandwiches," each filled with 1 ounce cheddar. Toast sandwiches in a skillet over medium-low heat until outside is golden brown and cheese is melted, about 3 minutes per side. Let "sandwiches" rest 1 minute. Slice away crusts. Cut each sandwich into nine neat croutons.

Ladle soup into bowls. Top each serving with a sprinkle of basil-thyme-salt and a handful of melted-cheese croutons.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe adapted from Leah Eskin, Chicago Tribune

Food on 08/26/2015

Upcoming Events