Q. I'm a young guy who cares about clothes. I work in an office with men who dress well, but my budget is not unlimited as in GQ. I'm hoping to spend a little and create a personal style by adding pocket squares and French cuff shirts with cuff links. (I have a few pairs from my dad and a couple from a thrift store.) Are these appropriate or do I need $1,000 suits to pull them off?
A. I'm so glad you asked. I, too, have been put off by the wildly expensive clothes that we see in men's magazines. Many of these can be discouraging to a young man who is starting out and hoping to develop his sense of style. Of course, if you have taste and an unlimited budget, you can buy whatever appeals to you, and should end up looking good. But if you have taste and a limited budget, you need to get creative.
Certainly, there are a few areas where you really should buy the best you can afford, such as suits, sports coats and shoes -- big-ticket items designed to last for decades. They need to be meticulously tailored so they fit to perfection. But you can still pull off some smaller, less expensive items, such as pocket squares and cuff links, as well as tie bars and interesting socks, even when you're not wearing a $1,000 suit. To be effective, they only need to be carefully selected to provide a bit of color, to coordinate with the rest of what you are wearing, and to make a subtle fashion statement, one that neither screams for attention nor fades out of sight.
But to give you some specifics:
• Pocket square: Because it is the least expensive way a man can elevate his style and add polish to his look, it can be a wise addition. It provides yet another opportunity to show a bit of personality. A pocket square can be worn with a suit, a blazer or a sports jacket. As to placement, it should just peek out of the breast pocket with about an inch or an inch-and-a-half showing (not so much that it looks like a flower). And do not arrange the points so precisely that they look like a picket fence. A jaunty, slightly casual air is the effect you are trying to achieve, whether you wear it points up or with the middle "puffed."
Your aim with a colored square is to complement (but not to match exactly) something else that you are wearing, usually the tie. Or it can echo the basic color of your jacket, your shirt, even a subtly colorful pair of socks. Here's an example: consider a tan suit, blue shirt, blue-and-brown striped tie and a silk pocket square in a dark-brown-and-light-blue small pattern or pindot. Today, when many men choose to skip the tie, they can still opt to wear a handkerchief as an accent. It can also be plain white linen or cotton with a colored border. In my opinion, there really is no reason to spend a lot on any of these. The look is the same.
• Cuff links: Now that French cuff shirts are again popular, cuff links are a required accessory. They are a great way to make a statement (and a welcome addition when wearing a smart suit without a tie). For those who have not inherited a vintage pair from Dad or Granddad, check out any of the gently-used clothing stores for some handsome bargains. Or you might like the newer, inexpensive silk knots that come in a variety of colors. Available at better men's shops for about $12 a pair, they have a few advantages besides price: they're different; they're a chic, crisp look; and they're never too big. (My rule for what is "too big" in cuff links: not much larger than a dime.)
• Tie bars: Small, current and smart looking, tie bars and clasps should be silver or gold-toned and simple in design. As with all men's jewelry, the most important point is to avoid anything large and showy.
• Colorful socks: Again, I urge you to be discreet in your choices. Today's new "fun" socks are brighter and more look-at-me than socks worn in the past. They definitely say a man is clothing- aware. Even so, use good judgment. If the design is sort of loud, at least choose a color that is somewhat quiet. And be logical: this trend works with sports coats, blazers, and medium-dark suits, not with elegant boardroom pinstripes.
• Keep in mind: A sharp-looking wardrobe does not simply appear in a man's closet. It requires a bit of thought, more than a bit of time and a good bit of caring. No one who is really well dressed comes by that effortlessly. When you are not able to spend a lot of money, you must be willing to spend more effort. You seem to be headed in the right direction. Have fun; you'll look great.
Send men's fashion queries to Male Call:
Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile on 08/30/2015