Today's flavor: New Orleans

FILE - In this March 4, 2014 file, photo, revelers pack the French Quarter during Mardi Gras, as seen from the balcony of the Royal Sonesta Hotel in New Orleans. Mardi Gras falls on Feb. 17 this year. (AP Photo/Gerald Herbert, File)
FILE - In this March 4, 2014 file, photo, revelers pack the French Quarter during Mardi Gras, as seen from the balcony of the Royal Sonesta Hotel in New Orleans. Mardi Gras falls on Feb. 17 this year. (AP Photo/Gerald Herbert, File)

Linda S. Haymes

For many former New Orleans residents now living in Arkansas, Mardi Gras runs deep. And when the city flooded following Hurricane Katrina in August 2005, even more of the Crescent City's residents relocated here.

But when Carnival season arrives, many of them head south to celebrate.

"My husband and I always go to New Orleans the weekend before Mardi Gras," says Debbie Chatelain of Little Rock, a New Orleans native who moved to Little Rock from Baton Rouge in 2000.

"I march in the [French] Quarter in a ladies' group called the Prima Donnas," she says of the group of more than 100 members who wear bustiers made of Mardi Gras beads. "Our children join us and we have a fabulous time. We enjoy eating at the wonderful restaurants and enjoying the Mardi Gras atmosphere."

Suzanne Klein of Little Rock and her husband, James, who have lived in Little Rock since Hurricane Katrina, also go back to the city for Mardi Gras each year, returning with king cakes from their favorite local bakery (Manny Randazzo's of Metairie) for neighbors and the friends they've met in the social group New Orleanians in Little Rock, formed in the aftermath of the storm.

"We go whenever the fates allow," says Susan Johnson of Little Rock, who moved here from New Orleans in 2005 after the hurricane. "That means we'll be there this year because my daughter is off of school for [Washington's Birthday, aka] Presidents' Day."

Those who can't make it back to their former city for Mardi Gras keep the spirit of the season alive here.

This year, the Boys & Girls Club of Central Arkansas celebrates Mardi Gras with a Friday fundraiser. The event, set for 8 p.m. at Next Level Events, 1400 W. Markham St., Little Rock, includes music by Boom Kinetic, wine and beer, a cash bar and lots of beads. Masks are encouraged but not required. Tickets are $25 in advance, $30 at the door. Call (501) 666-8816 or visit arclubs.org.

In Hot Springs Village, a Mardi Gras Celebration is being planned for 5 p.m. Saturday at the Balboa Club Lounge. The event will include a gumbo cook-off and music by Every Buddies Brother. No ticket necessary, but cover charge is $5. For more information, go to HSVTicketSales.com or call (501) 922-2909.

Back in Little Rock, when Johnson and her family find themselves in Arkansas for Fat Tuesday, being celebrated today, they make a point to eat New Orleans-seasoned cuisine.

"We've gone to Krazy Mike's [now Lazy Pete's] for their po-boys and gumbo," she explains of the restaurant at 200 N. Bowman Road, Suite 9, in Little Rock (lazypetes.com). As of press time, the restaurant had no food or drink specials planned for today.

Others choose a fast-food chain that originated in the City That Care Forgot.

"We always eat Popeye's on Mardi Gras Day because that's what we always had in New Orleans on Mardi Gras Day," says Lisa Carrone, who moved to Little Rock in 2005 following Katrina.

Carrone's father, Ed David, who owns The Faded Rose, a Little Rock restaurant serving New Orleans fare, won't be eating Popeye's. His business, at 1619 Rebsamen Park Road, recognizes Mardi Gras each year by holding its first crawfish boil of the season that day. Half and full platters of boiled crawfish will be served beginning at 4 p.m. today. Call (501) 663-9734.

New Orleans fare is also on the menu at Maddie's Place, The Faded Rose's neighbor at 1615 Rebsamen Park Road.

Boudreaux's Grill and Bar (boudreauxsgrillandbar.com) at 9811 Maumelle Blvd., North Little Rock, has several Mardi Gras specials today, including $5 Hurricane mixed drinks all day as well as specials on crawfish etouffee, peel-and-eat shrimp and crab legs, and on domestic and imported beers.

The Oyster Bar at 3003 W. Markham St. in Little Rock (lroysterbar.com) will offer specials on shrimp and drinks and will give beads to its patrons. Call (501) 666-7100.

Other restaurants offering New Orleans food and drinks in Little Rock (but no specials for Mardi Gras) include Copeland's in west Little Rock and The Capital Bar and Grill in the downtown Capital Hotel.

A culinary Mardi Gras mainstay is the king cake, a large oval cake shaped like an oversize doughnut. The cake, accented with cinnamon and featuring a cream cheese filling, is topped with white icing and purple, green and gold sugar sprinkles and contains a small plastic baby hidden inside.

The cake is an essential part of the celebration, and some former New Orleans residents have relatives and friends remaining in the city who send the sweets from their favorite hometown bakery.

"My dad sends me a McKenzie's [Bakery] king cake every year as my birthday cake, which is Jan. 4," says Erica Harrod who moved to Little Rock from New Orleans in 2005 and now lives in Austin.

"My friend Suzanne now keeps my need for king cakes met," says Sandy Davis of Maumelle, who also moved here in 2005 following Hurricane Katrina.

Others order cakes to be shipped.

"We always have several Randazzo's king cakes shipped to us during the season," Chatelain says.

Bakeries in Little Rock serving them include downtown's Community Bakery, 1200 Main St.

"We've been making them here for more than 20 years," says Community Bakery's general manager John Sproles. "We make hundreds of them every Mardi Gras season and they keep increasing in popularity every year."

The bakery usually starts making them the last week of January but will do so at any time of the year for customers who special-order one -- even in July.

And when celebrating their previous city, the former New Orleans residents don't limit their reveling to just the dinner table.

"We decorate our houses for Mardi Gras inside and out," Klein says.

Many leave their Christmas trees up and transform their decorations from yuletide ones to those of purple, green and gold, with ornaments featuring the fleur de lis and some of the city's more famous locales. For a fast and easy transition, a Christmas tree decorated in hues of red, green, and gold only needs to have its red decorations replaced with purple ones to transform into a Mardi Gras tree.

"We keep up our tree and decorate it for Mardi Gras and I put out the Mardi Gras flag," Johnson says.

Davis says, "I always decorate my mantel with Mardi Gras purple, green and gold feather boas, beads, and masks that I've collected over time."

Style on 02/17/2015

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