Citrus spills luscious color into a drab winter day

The sky tends to be grayer than blue during long winters. And after the fun and games of those first feathery snowstorms, the constant cold, slush and ice start to wear on you.

Bring back summer, already!

It can seem equally bleak at the grocery store. Root vegetables and winter greens make great comfort foods, but they don't have quite the same pizazz as, say, a basket of homegrown tomatoes or a pint of sun-sweetened, local strawberries.

Try as it may, a parsnip just ain't the same as a peach.

Thank goodness there's an easy fix for the winter blues: juicy, colorful citrus fruits.

The winter months are peak season for these sweet, sometimes tangy orbs, which bring a much-needed dose of sunshine to the table along with a healthful shot of vitamin C and other antioxidants.

From oranges and tangerines to grapefruit, lemons and limes -- they're all available in spades now through late spring, brightening the culinary landscape while tickling our taste buds. And don't forget about those adorable little "cuties," an easy-to-peel, super-sweet clementine orange that's the perfect size for snacking.

It's shaping up to be another good year for citrus, with the U.S. Department of Agriculture forecasting some 103 million boxes (4.64 tons) of oranges out of Florida this season. California also should enjoy brisk sales, with some 50 million boxes of fruit expected to hit the market, including tangerines and Cara Cara oranges, a red-fleshed navel grown in the San Joaquin Valley that's gaining in popularity.

Sweet and tangy, with notes of cranberry and cherry, these bright-orange hybrids are especially prized for their low acidity and lack of seeds. Navel oranges, which first came to the United States in the mid-1800s from Bahia, Brazil, by way of missionaries, are popular, too, along with blood oranges, Meyer lemons and green-skinned pummelos. Also known as Chinese grapefruit, these specialty fruits -- the largest of all citrus fruits -- can grow to the size of volleyballs. Aromatic and juicy, they're a bit sweeter than traditional grapefruit.

And don't forget about red and white grapefruit, which are for so much more than breakfast. Grapefruit can be peeled and eaten out of hand just like an orange, or sectioned and added to salads, entrees and desserts. And its juice makes a puckery, sweet-sour cocktail mixer.

Citrus also is incredibly versatile. Its juice can be used to marinate seafood for ceviche or brighten a dessert curd; it also can be sectioned and tossed into salads savory and sweet; juiced into Latin-style soups and stews; blended into smoothies and salad dressings; and zested for baked goods.

The biggest nutritional benefits come from raw citrus, but it's still pretty good for you tossed into a stir-fry (cooking it will make it sweeter) or baked or squeezed into a dessert. Using citrus juice and zest as flavoring also is a nice way to reduce sodium-related seasonings in many dishes, in that it adds a little extra zip naturally.

When buying citrus, look for firm fruit with bright, colorful skin. While a few rough spots are OK, avoid citrus that feels soft or spongy or has cuts and bruises. You also want to steer clear if there's any mold in the stem, or the skin looks dried out. Weight matters -- the fruit should feel heavier than anticipated. Higher water content means it'll be juicier.

If you plan on zesting the fruit (it's most aromatic and flavorful when you first remove it, so use it quickly), make sure the peel is really clean and shiny, regardless of whether it's organic. In addition to insecticides, some fruit is sprayed with color dyes and edible wax to slow the loss of moisture. Always wash it under warm running water, using just the friction of your fingers to scrub it clean.

Below, we offer some fresh ideas on cooking with vibrant winter citrus. It's sure to brighten your mood and bring edible sunshine into the kitchen.

Keep in mind one lemon yields about 1 tablespoon of zest and 2 to 3 tablespoons of juice; a medium orange has twice that amount. An average lime has about 2 teaspoons of zest and 2 tablespoons of juice.

Forget about orange being the new black. Shades of pink -- think the insides of a Ruby Red grapefruit -- is where it's at during citrus season.

Fresh grapefruit juice increases the flavor in this easy, slightly sour margarita recipe. It also offers a dose of antioxidant-rich vitamins C and A, as well as dietary fiber.

Simple syrup can be substituted for the agave nectar. Cheers!

Sour Grapefruit Margarita

Coarse salt

1 lime, cut into wedges

1 cup fresh grapefruit juice

1/2 cup fresh lime juice

1/4 cup agave nectar

1/2 cup tequila

Ice cubes

Scatter salt in a wide, shallow dish. Run a wedge of lime around rim of 2 glasses, then dip them in the salt mixture. Set aside.

In shaker, combine grapefruit juice, lime juice, agave and tequila. Drop a handful of ice cubes into the cup and shake well. Carefully strain and pour into prepared glasses. If desired, garnish with a slice of lime.

Makes 2 servings.

Recipe adapted from Healthy Latin Eating by Angie Martinez and Angelo Sosa

Limoncello

10 to 12 organically grown lemons

750 mL bottle vodka

2 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 cups sugar

Wash lemons and then use vegetable peeler to remove yellow zest of the peels. Store now-naked lemons in refrigerator to use juice in another recipe.

Put the lemon zest strips into a large, clean glass jar. Pour vodka over strips of lemon. Lemon should be completely submerged in vodka; push it down with a spoon if necessary. Cover jar and leave it at room temperature for 2 weeks. Shake jar every other day to redistribute the lemon peels.

After 2 weeks, liquid will have taken on a bright yellow color from the peels. Pour mixture through a strainer into a large bowl or pitcher. Discard peels.

Combine water and sugar in pot over medium heat. Cook, stirring, until sugar has dissolved into water to form a simple syrup. As soon as sugar has dissolved, remove pot from heat. Let syrup cool to room temperature.

Pour lemon-infused vodka into syrup and stir to combine. Pour limoncello through a funnel into 2 clean 750 ml glass bottles. Cap or cork tightly. Store bottles of limoncello in refrigerator or freezer. There's still one ingredient left to add: patience. Wait at least 2 weeks, preferably a month, for flavors of limoncello to mix and mellow before serving.

Makes 2 (750 mL) bottles.

Recipe adapted from Preserving Everything by Leda Meredith

This salad is sweet and nutty, with a wonderfully chewy texture. The ricelike wheat berries marry perfectly with sweet oranges and grapes. Go easy on the vinaigrette -- it packs a punch.

Wheat Berry, Baby Spinach, Grape and Orange Salad

2 cups wheat berries

1 teaspoon salt

For vinaigrette:

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup golden balsamic vinegar

Zest of 1 orange

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

2 teaspoons agave nectar

1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon curry powder

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Pinch of ground ginger

Ground black pepper

For salad:

5 ounces baby spinach or baby kale

1 cup seedless red grapes

1 cup seedless green grapes

2 oranges, segmented

Salt and ground black pepper

1 cup raw, unsalted walnuts, toasted and chopped

Make the wheat berries: Rinse them and put them in medium pot with 6 cups water and salt. Bring to boil and then reduce to simmer. Cook, covered, 1 hour, until wheat berries are just tender. Add a few cups cold water to pot; stir and then strain. Place wheat berries in a very large bowl to cool, stirring occasionally.

Make the vinaigrette: Combine oil, vinegar, zest, juice, agave, mustard, salt, curry powder, cayenne, ginger and pepper in a small jar. Seal lid tightly and shake vigorously to combine. Set aside at room temperature.

To make the salad: Combine the cooled wheat berries with the spinach (or kale) in a large bowl. Toss with 1/2 cup of dressing. Add grapes and orange segments and another 1/4 cup dressing and toss again. Add more dressing if desired and season with salt and pepper. Toss in walnuts right before serving.

Makes 8 servings.

Recipe adapted from Straight From the Earth by Myra Goodman and Marea Goodman

This stir-fry recipe is a keeper. Slightly freezing the meat strips made them fry up crisp and crunchy, while still staying tender inside.

Crispy Orange Beef

1 1/2 pounds sirloin steak tips, trimmed

3 tablespoons soy sauce, divided use

6 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 cup orange juice

3 tablespoons molasses

2 tablespoons dry sherry

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons roasted sesame oil

3 cups vegetable oil

10 (3-inch) strips orange peel, sliced thin lengthwise

1 to 2 jalapenos, stemmed, seeded and sliced thin lengthwise

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

3 cloves garlic

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 scallions, sliced thin on bias

Cut beef with grain into 2- to 3-inch-wide pieces. Slice each piece against grain into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Cut each slice lengthwise into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Toss beef with 1 tablespoon soy sauce in bowl. Add cornstarch and toss until evenly coated. Spread beef in single layer on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Put sheet in freezer until meat is very firm but not completely frozen, about 45 minutes.

Whisk orange juice, molasses, sherry, vinegar, sesame oil and remaining 2 tablespoons soy sauce together in bowl.

Line second rimmed baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium heat until oil registers 375 degrees. Carefully add a third of beef and fry, stirring occasionally to keep beef from sticking, until golden brown, about 1 1/2 minutes. Using wire-mesh skimmer, transfer meat to paper towel-lined sheet. Return oil to 375 degrees and repeat with remaining beef. After frying, reserve 2 tablespoons frying oil.

Heat reserved oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add orange peel and jalapenos and cook, stirring occasionally, until about half of orange peel is golden brown, 11/2 to 2 minutes. Add ginger, garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring frequently, until garlic begins to brown, about 45 seconds. Add soy sauce mixture and cook, scraping up any brown bits, until slightly thickened, about 45 seconds. Add beef and scallions and toss. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Adapted from Cook's Illustrated Meat Book from America's Test Kitchen

Food on 02/25/2015

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