Q I use a pre-emergent herbicide on my iris beds now to keep down the weeds. I think that I saw an article recommending to use a pre-emergent in the spring where we would normally use Roundup. Can I use a pre-emergent on my daffodil beds, or would it keep the daffodils from coming up? When the time comes to mow down the daffodils, the weeds are higher than the daffodils.
A The first consideration you have is what type of weeds are in your beds. Pre-emergent herbicides only work to prevent annual weeds, those that come up from seed each year. This would include winter annuals such as henbit, chickweed and spurweed, and summer annuals including crabgrass, goosegrass and pigweed; it would not help with perennial weeds such as Bermuda grass, wild onions, dandelions or nutsedge. Timing is also important. You have to use it in the fall before winter weeds germinate, and then in late winter/early spring before summer annuals germinate. Using a pre-emergent now is too late for winter weeds -- they are up and growing. It is also too early for summer weeds. Always read and follow label directions for herbicides. Some pre-emergent products are labeled only for lawns, while others can be used in ornamental beds. Daffodils and irises should not be affected since they are perennials, but again, make sure the products are labeled for ornamentals. A good hoe can help to get the weeds down now, and then a layer of mulch around the daffodils can help.
Q I have a Christmas cactus that finally bloomed recently, but after about half of the blooms came out it looked like it just went flat. It looked like it needed water to flesh it out. But that didn't work. Can you please help me figure out what happened to it? I've talked to many people about this and no one seems to know what to do.
A Could the plant have gotten too wet or too cold? I have one that got too much water outside before I brought it in, and it wasn't happy. By flat, I would assume the cactus version of wilted, which can occur from too much or too little water. Heavy soils are not the best for a cactus plant. A light soil is best. Many houseplants are not growing in leaps and bounds right now and, with all the dreary days we had in December, are struggling more than normal. Consider repotting it and see if the roots are white and healthy or brown and slimy, indicating root rot. Keep it in a relatively small pot, since they do better when slightly pot-bound. Make sure there is a drainage hole. Lightly water, give it bright light and be patient.
Q I have read that my fig can withstand temperatures down to 20 degrees. It is now too large for the frame-and-blanket system I used last year to cover it when it was super cold and windy at night. I used a portable frame (aka an upside-down metal table base) that fit around it because I did not want the blanket to put too much pressure on the stem ends. Do you have any suggestions or advice now that my tree has outgrown the frame?
A Last year was the first year in a while that we had winter damage on fig trees. For many years we called figs "fig bushes" because they got frozen to the ground almost every winter. Now we have legitimate fig trees, and covering them is just not feasible. Mulching them at the base as much as possible after a killing frost in the fall after they have gone dormant is about all you can do. You don't want to break branches by covering with blankets. Let them begin new growth in the spring and then assess possible damage. Even if they do get nipped back, figs produce on the new growth, so you should still be able to harvest. Last year we had abnormally cold weather, but it was also extremely dry in many parts of the state, and it was a roller coaster of highs and lows. Let's just keep our fingers crossed that we don't have any damage this year.
Janet B. Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at
jcarson@arkansasonline.com
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