Q. Yesterday, I was wearing a gray suit, a white shirt, and a yellow and red tie. I was confused about what shoes I should wear. I thought black shoes match with a gray suit, but the tie seemed better with brown shoes. Is there any rule I should know?
A. No, not exactly. The rules for color coordinating neckties with shoes are either very loose or totally non-existent. Color coordinating rules for ties usually have to do with the color of the shirt, the suit or jacket, and sometimes with the trousers. Color rules for shoes are mostly coordinated with the suit or the pants. But I will provide you with some other criteria that savvy men use to choose ties that go with their clothes and that also express their individuality and flair.
Incidentally, I'm glad you only mentioned black and brown, because if you're considering which shoes to wear when you are "dressed up" enough to be wearing a tie, then those really are your only two choices. Even though sharp dressers wear casual and sport shoes in every imaginable color these days, men's dress shoes remain constant, only black or brown.
Basically, black shoes, which are considered more dressy, are worn with navy, gray, and black suits, jackets, or trousers. So, it seems that black shoes would work well with the combination you are describing. Dark brown shoes accompany clothes in the more casual brown family, every shade from spring's tan suits and beige tweed jackets, through khaki pants, on to deep chocolate brown leathers.
While these may be the overall guidelines, they are not cast in stone. For years, a lot of well-turned-out preppy dressers have worn deep brown or cordovan-colored shoes with everything from chinos to navy suits. This is more a reflection of their "Eastern Seaboard Syndrome" than any fashion rule. Traditional dressers often prefer the increased formality of black shoes with all their suits, including khaki poplins. And some very fashion-aware men enjoy the unexpected pairing of highly--polished medium-brown shoes with their superbly cut gray suits for a sophisticated look.
If you are looking for more specific rules for what colors go with what shoes, focus on the color of your socks. Usually black shoes call for gray, black, or navy socks; brown shoes match up with browns, tans, and burgundies. But these, too, may vary, especially today when funky colored and patterned socks are so popular.
On the other hand, unlike the limited number of shoe colors, tie colors are almost infinite. Choose any colors that you like to complement or contrast with your shirt and/or your jacket in every shade from light to dark and also in every type of pattern imaginable. Keep in mind that your necktie is the most visible item in a man's wardrobe; it is the one item for which you are most likely to receive a compliment. So choose wisely.
An important aside: Shoes should be the best you can afford. The difference shows, and you can feel it, too. Expensive shoes are usually comfortable shoes. In fact, the importance of shoes and how they reflect on a man's overall image is not just something that I believe. Recently, while reading Robert Wittman's fascinating book, Priceless, about how he went undercover to rescue the world's stolen art treasures, I came across this useful piece of advice that he gave to a young FBI agent: "Do me a favor? If you're gonna be an Internet hotshot ... find yourself a nicer pair of shoes."
Send men's fashion queries to Male Call:
Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net
High Profile on 03/22/2015