Grounded Gourmasian gratifies

The shtick is "Southern meets Asian." The story is food truck turns storefront (partially through crowdfunding, with more than $16,000 coming from 177 Kickstarter backers). The digs are roomy and clean, with blond wood, a strong black and red motif and a nifty ceiling installation that resembles floating matchsticks.

Welcome to the stationary version of Southern Gourmasian, on a strip of West Capitol Avenue that bustles by day and rattles by night. (Not surprisingly, the restaurant follows suit.)

The brick-and-mortar's menu is larger than the food truck's menu, with new offerings such as a Grilled Kimcheese Sandwich (with habanero and kimchi, one of three vegetarian options; $8), a hearty poached-egg Ramen bowl ($9), Korean fried chicken ($10) and nine appetizers ($5-$9). Also offered -- libations! To the tune of at least a dozen beers, including local brews and 10 wines.

My first visit was a quick lunch of Balinese Chicken Steamed Buns ($7.50), ordered at the counter and materializing soon after at my table.

I expected Balinese chicken to be spicy and shredded. Instead, I got grilled chicken strips hugged by an airy rice bun, spread with what the menu describes as "cilantro honey vinaigrette" (it's actually more pesto than dressing), homemade potato chips and an odd dollop of lettuce and cucumber that's more garnish than salad.

My first impression wasn't the best. The most distinct flavor was stale acridness, which I guess could also be described as "char-grill," and the chicken was dry. But the cilantro-honey spread was sweet and clean, so that provided some consolation. Next time, I'll try the shredded pork shoulder buns. I've heard only good things.

On the way out, I spotted a friend giving the Spicy Chicken and Rice Dumplings ($8.50) a second go. She advised against the bowl, unless you're a big fan of salt. ("Both times, too salty," she sighed.)

The second visit was more successful. We came for a weeknight dinner (served till 9 p.m. -- late, by downtown standards) and started with the Lobster Kimchi Fritters ($8). Some appetizers we wanted to try but didn't: pork and scallion Sher Ping Pancakes ($5), Galloping Horses (ground pork, peanuts and sweet chile sauce; $6) and something described as "Benton's 18 Month Country Ham, Pickled Cauliflower, Shiro Miso Mustard, Sriracha Deviled Egg" ($8).

As former New Englanders, we both had (perhaps unrealistically) high expectations for the lobster fritters. We were nonplussed with the rock-hard nuggets, which were a lot of "fritter," little lobster and less kimchi. (Upon dissection, we found a shred of something that could have been cabbage, possibly. But isn't kimchi spicy? Like streaming-from-every-facial-orifice spicy?)

The lobster was gray and overcooked and the whole thing tasted of cooking oil. Only the ponzu aioli (creamy and tangy, with a citrus and soy base) redeemed the dish.

But then, then, we tasted the gloriousness of the Root Beer and Ginger Braised Beef Short Rib, and disappointment dissipated. We didn't understand the price (at $17.50, the most expensive menu item), since short rib is generally cheaper than high-grade tuna (our Sesame-crusted Tuna was only $12), but we agreed that this juicy, comforting experience was worth the money.

A play on a Korean barbecue bowl, the short rib is a mountain of marvel. The meat (fall-apart tender) perches atop a mound of mashed potatoes, with crispy fried onions piled on top and tender baby greens sprinkled over everything. The mountain rests in a lake of oily, succulent gravy, which the menu calls "wasabi jus." ("Au jus" is French for "in its own juice," so the liquid was probably leaked during cooking.)

Despite the "wasabi" descriptor, there was nothing spicy about the rib. It had a smoky flavor and a sweet, faintly sarsaparilla (root beer) crust. The potatoes were smooth, warm and easy, and everything was delicious, accessible and moist, like a fancy take on your mother's Sunday pot roast.

Served rare, the tuna was fresh and the pool of smoky tomato-ginger broth was an excellent complement. What initially struck us as an odd combination ended up being just the right mix of pungent and sweet. And we enjoyed the accompanying sauteed snow peas and, to cover the "Southern" bit, lightly cornmeal-battered fried cauliflower.

Our server was attentive (our water glasses were always full), but oddly, he brought our check before asking about dessert. (For those with a sweet tooth, the menu offers $5 Brioche Dark Chocolate Bread Pudding, Ginger Apple Fried Pie and a $2.50 scoop of Loblolly's Salted Caramel Ice Cream.)

On my third visit, I tried a frequent daily special -- the Sambal Crab Cake Sandwich ($9). Lunch is busy and this time, it took about 20 minutes for my sandwich to arrive. Lightly battered and moist, pan-fried rather than deep-fried, the crab cake was served on a soft, buttery roll and had a mild flavor. The sambal (an Indonesian sauce made from chilies and spices) was slightly sweet, and the raw beet and mango slaw nestled between the cake and bun added crunch and a tangy kick. It wasn't an earth-shattering experience, but it was a satisfying one. And in general, another downtown dining option is always appreciated.

But if actual seating isn't your bag (hey, some people are rebels), the old yellow and red food truck has been spotted around town, doling out buns at the Hillcrest Farmers Market and other sundry events. This renders Southern Gourmasian's stalwart presence on Capitol a classic example of nothing lost, everything gained.

Weekend on 05/21/2015