MALE CALL

Classic, conservative is way to dress for initial interview

Q. I was lucky enough to have an in for my first job, and so I was dressing for work before I ever went on an interview. Now that I am "out on the trail" for a job I'm wondering if I can just wear my traditional work clothes or need a different approach for interview dressing.

A. Men's interview dressing should be classic and conservative. It should send the message that you are not the type to rock the boat or to call unnecessary attention to yourself. Does this sound as though I am suggesting that you dress rather innocuously for an interview? Yes, I am.

After you have passed the first interview and are ready for the second, your clothes may express a touch more individuality. But proceed with caution. Certainly, after you have the job, you may show more of your own style.

It's pretty much the same whether you're applying for an entry-level position or for something higher up. The major difference is that the entry-level guy isn't expected to have as many high-quality clothes. For a second interview, the new grad would wear a different shirt and tie but might trot out the same suit. A man applying for something more senior or for a managerial role actually needs a few suits.

So what are the overall do's and don'ts for men's interview attire? Check out this guide to colors, cuts, fabrics and presentation.

STYLE

In the more staid fields (banking, law, etc.), or at a higher level, you need a minimum of two suits, starting with a solid dark gray and a solid navy. A serious solid color is unlike a swaggering pinstripe; it won't turn anyone off. You don't want to seem too showy or dress better than your interviewer. What you do want is for your background, experience and personality to do the speaking for you, not your clothes.

Avoid a double-breasted suit; a single-breasted one is not only more versatile, but always safe. Choose a classic two-button style with either a single back vent or double English vents. Well-tailored and neat are the keys when deciding what to wear.

You can wear either the navy suit or the deep gray for a first interview, and the other one for a second interview. An important note: Even though a black suit and a khaki suit are great additions to a man's wardrobe, neither is interview-appropriate unless you're seeking a job in TV or some other glamour industry.

A blazer or sports jacket is usually too casual for an interview. Still, a blazer and dress pants do have their place. If you're seeking a position in academia, where some professors may not even own a suit, or if your interview extends to an evening social invitation, you'll want to show you are flexible enough to unwind and dress in a slightly more relaxed manner. But don't stray from what is classic and traditional: Navy blazer, gray dress pants or sharply-creased khakis, perhaps a blue or striped shirt, and a quiet tie. The location may be different, but the approach is still the same. If you are dressed too casually, you are immediately at a disadvantage.

SHIRTS, ACCESSORIES

For the first interview, a white shirt, not blue or ecru, in a business style is best. Choose a simple shirt collar, such as a traditional straight point or the slightly less dressy button-down; avoid dapper tab collars or wide English spreads. Also avoid monograms or jaunty white-contrast-collar shirts. Staying with button (barrel) cuffs instead of French cuffs will help avoid any cufflink mistakes.

Above all, go with 100 percent cotton shirts, no blends. The shirt should be as white and crisp as possible. In fact, investing in a new shirt could be a wise move. Provided you choose a clear light shade, you might pair a solid blue shirt or a subtle blue stripe with the second suit for your next interview.

The tie is extremely important, since it is the first thing someone notices in a man's outfit. An all-over neat pattern, a small dot, and a classic stripe all work well. Avoid anything wild, overly bright, or cleverly statement-making. For example, a bow tie is out of the question. Even if this is your style, save it for later. Forget bold pocket squares. And minimize jewelry. Certainly, wear a watch, but not a sporty running watch or an ostentatious Rolex.

To complete a professional image, black lace-up shoes are far better than casual penny loafers or anything gimmicky. Never underestimate the importance of a good shoeshine. And black socks, please, ones that are not bulky and are long enough to cover your ankles if you cross your legs.

GROOMING

Careful grooming is crucial. Besides shined shoes, clean nails are a must. Trimmed and combed hair; well-knotted tie; pressed pants; and a well-ironed, tucked-in shirt are as important as choosing the right clothes. Looking polished says positive things about your organizational skills and your business judgment. Have a real pen handy as well as a clean handkerchief in your pocket.

A man can often adjust his wardrobe to express his personal style and individuality, but this almost never applies to dressing for a job interview. Here, it is crucial to concentrate on your goal of getting past the first interview and ultimately getting the job.

Send men's fashion queries to Male Call:

Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

High Profile on 05/24/2015

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