It’s that time of year when rose lovers give their rosé revival pitch to all who are not yet on board. The effort may (finally) be making a difference. In the past year I’ve seen rosé wines show up on more wine lists and more shelf space devoted to the blushing wine than in years past. A few years ago it was rare to see more than a few brands available. And just last week I saw retailers lining whole sections with this joy of a wine.
I’ve written about rosé’s image problem many times; the misguided belief held by some (but not all) wine drinkers that all rosé wines are sweet. And yes, there are plenty of sweet rosés out there. But it’s the dry style that offers the truly mesmerizing flavors of strawberry and cherry with a crisp tangy acidity.
Most rosé wines are made by crushing red grapes and letting the skins soak on the juice for a few hours. This is where the wines get the delicate light color versus the deep ruby in most red wines. The grapes used to make rosé are unusual suspects if you consider their strong style and tannic structure. Depending on the wine region and winemakers’ goal, rosé is usually made with merlot, cabernet franc, syrah, grenache and malbec.
To add to the excitement (and sometimes confusion) of rosé is that it can also be fizzy. Sparkling rosé has beautiful aromas and a refreshing taste of berries, strawberries and raspberries. Some Australian rosé wines can even have a peppery sweet taste.
A chilled rosé opened on a hot sunny day is one of my most refreshing and delightful experiences with wine.
THE VALUES
2013 LaPlaya Estates Cabernet Rosé, Chile (about $8 retail)
2013 Charles and Charles Rosé, Washington (about $14 retail)
2013 La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux Rosé, France (about $10 retail)
THE SPLURGES
2013 Cornerstone Stepping Stone Corallina Syrah Rosé, California (about $25 retail)
2013 Presqu’ile Vineyards Rosé, California (about $20 retail)
2014 Chateau de Berne Impatience Cotes de Provence, France (about $17 retail)
2010 Alienor La Roseraie Lake County Rosé, California (about $25 retail)
2013 Turkey Flat Rosé, Australia (about $26 retail)
2013 Mira Winery Rosé, California (about $20 retail)
Lorri Hambuchen is a member of London’s Institute of Wines and Spirits. Contact her at the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette, P.O. Box 2221, Little Rock, Ark. 72203, or email:
uncorked@thewinecenter.com