Rick's N'awlins fare is on a roll

Rick's Beignets, a purple, green and gold food truck parked in a lot at Country Club Road and North Hills Boulevard in Sherwood makes a big promise with the slogan stretched across the truck's side: "Bringing you a Taste of New Orleans." And, for the most part, owner Rick Rogers delivers.

Located near the Indian Hills shopping center, the business is open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Saturday.

A large awning shades three white plastic bistro-style tables, each with a pair of matching plastic chairs. Nearby, small potted plants accent the dining area.

Rogers grew up on a south Mississippi farm but spent several summers as a child in New Orleans visiting relatives. He later attended Loyola University there, graduating in 1996. While in college, he worked at the original Copeland's restaurant in uptown New Orleans as a waiter and bar-back. While he never cooked professionally, he became friends with the chefs, who shared their recipes and occasionally let him do prep work and experiment in the kitchen. In 2011 he landed in Arkansas while in the Air Force.

Rogers and those who work with him strive to cook everything on site, using slow cookers for the gumbo ($6.99) and the red beans and rice ($5.99). Beignets and sliders are made to order.

The menu is pretty straightforward. Beignets are sold individually ($1) or as a daily special consisting of three with a small cup of coffee for $4.99, or a dozen for $10. Choices of toppings for the deep-fried pastries are honey, chocolate, double-chocolate fudge, strawberry or caramel (25 cents each). A dozen beignet bites are also offered ($3).

The lunch menu includes a pair of buffalo chicken beignet sliders or a pair of ham and cheese beignet sliders ($5.99). The ham sliders have baby Swiss cheese while the buffalo chicken consists of deep-fried chicken breast tenders, provolone cheese, sweet and spicy mustard and sliced dill pickles.

As a New Orleans native, I began with beignets and a cup of the cafe au lait. The coffee was exactly as it should be. The beignets, which Rogers describes as Belgian style, were not light and airy inside like ones from the French Quarter's legendary Cafe Du Monde. Instead, they were dense, featuring several layers of dough (reminding me of the type of dough used in Pillsbury's refrigerated flaky biscuits). The beignets didn't taste as thick as they appeared, but instead seemed light, despite the heavy presence of grease. In some ways, they brought to mind baklava.

I tried the buffalo chicken sliders and the red beans and rice for lunch. The sandwich was flavorful and warm, in taste and temperature, while the deep-red, firm beans were nearly perfect, cooked well with just the right amount of seasoning. Those desiring more kick can request hot sauce, several varieties of which are kept inside the truck.

Rotating daily specials are: red beans and rice with andouille sausage ($5.99), six hush puppies ($2.99), and popcorn shrimp sliders ($6.99) on Mondays and Tuesdays; a rotating selection of sliders and various dishes such as okra ($3.99) on Wednesdays and Thursdays; chicken and andouille sausage gumbo on Fridays and Saturdays.

Cold beverages ($1 each) are Coca-Cola products and water. Hot beverage choices ($2.99 for a small and $3.99 for a large) include coffees (Cafe Du Monde with chicory, Community Coffee Breakfast Blend, Community Coffee Dark Roast), and cafe au lait (coffee with milk) or hot chocolate.

An early hiccup occurred when, after initially opening in August, sales were so brisk the business went through a projected two month's worth of dough (made by a bakery in Wisconsin and obtained from a supplier in Kansas City) in just 10 days, says Keith Donoven, who works with Rogers.

"Rick says that was a rookie mistake and it won't happen again," Donoven assures.

While all the key elements and ingredients are present, this dining experience isn't absolutely, authentically N'awlins. Instead, I'd call it a taste of the Crescent City with a twist -- which is how the locals there roll, adding in dashes of distinctive flavors along the way. So, on second thought, maybe it is authentically N'awlins.

Weekend on 11/05/2015