Zoes: Less tradition, more casual

The Hummus Trio features basil pesto, red pepper and classic hummus with pita chips, tomatoes, green peppers and cucumbers at Zoes Kitchen.
The Hummus Trio features basil pesto, red pepper and classic hummus with pita chips, tomatoes, green peppers and cucumbers at Zoes Kitchen.

When we heard that Zoes Kitchen, a fast-casual Mediterranean franchise, was moving next to the west Little Rock Target, we wondered why.

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Steak Kabobs of beef, red bell pepper and onions come with grilled potatoes and roasted vegetables at Zoes Kitchen in Little Rock.

After all, a fast-casual Taziki's Mediterranean Cafe franchise is just a kalamata olive's throw away in the neighboring shopping center.

Zoe’s Kitchen

Address: 12900 Chenal Parkway, Little Rock

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily

Cuisine: Fast-casual Mediterranean

Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

Alcoholic beverages: Mixed drink permit pending

Reservations: No

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes; call ahead or order online

(501) 227-0704

zoeskitchen.com

But while both have hummus and cater to diners wanting a quick bite that's a bit more interesting than a burger, the two have their differences. Offering gyros, chargrilled lamb and dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), Taziki's is more exotic, whereas Zoes, with a greater emphasis on salads and sandwiches, is the more tame of the two.

Zoes , with a take-a-number-to-your-table ordering system, a pick-two menu option and a rewards app (sign up, you could earn freebies and deals), reminds us more of Panera Bread.

With a sunny vibe and splashy hues, Zoes is an inviting spot with colorful chairs and a few booths. The fare and feel make it more of a lunch place, but the setting and entrees like salmon kebabs ($11.69, tied for the most expensive meal on the menu) could make it a speedy dinner option after the gym or before a movie. At least once their alcohol permit is approved. For now, beverages are fresh limeade, soda, bottled water, juice, milk and tea.

With the exception of soup, hummus ($4.99-$5.29) is the only appetizer. Pick one: classic, basil pesto or red pepper, or pick all three in the form of the Hummus Trio ($6.79). We did the latter and appreciated the attractive presentation of three chickpea spreads served with a vivid variety of dippers -- pita chips, tomatoes, green peppers and cucumbers. Admittedly we ignored the conventional classic variety in favor of the lively basil (it even pleased the hummus hater of the party) and the unexpectedly spicy and robust red pepper.

Available soups ($2.99 cup up to $8.99 quart) are chicken and orzo or tomato bisque. The bisque, which was ordered as part of a pick-two deal ($6.99) with half of a sandwich (other choices are a side, side Greek salad or dessert) was lively if a hint acidic, although a sprinkling of cheese and fresh basil and a few pita triangles helped.

As for the other half of the pick-two, the Gruben (normally $7.59) -- a sandwich of grilled turkey, Swiss, slaw and spicy mustard -- was satisfactory, though not particularly memorable.

Full of fresh ingredients, Zoes salads ($6.99-$8.99), served with pita bread, are standout. Zoes Greek dressing, a fixture on tables, can be bought by the bottle for $3.99.

The Greek Salad ($7.69; $2.09 to add chicken) was a bounty of greens, tomato, cucumber, peppers, olives, red onions and feta on top of delicious no-mayonnaise potato salad. The Tossed Greek ($8.89) was all that (chicken included) with an addition of caramelized onions and pasta salad instead of the potato salad.

The Chicken Salad & Fruit Plate ($8.69) was a scoop of tasty chicken salad over greens with a harvest of green apples, cantaloupe, pineapple and red grapes.

Not the traditional tabbouleh of bulgur, the Orzo "Tabouli" Salad ($7.39) was orzo pasta with baby spinach, mixed greens, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, feta and lemon vinaigrette. Two seasoned, charbroiled kebabs of shrimp and zucchini ($4.09) were a worthy upgrade (salmon $4.09; chicken $3.09 are other options).

All classic sandwiches ($7.19) and pita sandwiches and grilled sandwiches ($7.59) come with a side (braised white beans, fruit, roasted vegetables, potato salad, rice pilaf, pasta salad, marinated slaw or side Greek salad). Sides are $2.09 separately.

Under entrees are several versions of tortilla roll-ups ($7.69-$8.99) and kebabs ($8.79-$11.69), which usually come with a side and/or side Greek salad and sometimes pita bread.

The Steak Kabobs ($11.69) featured nice charbroiled beef chunks skewered with onions and red bell pepper and heaps of grilled potatoes and roasted vegetables.

Another warm entree, the Greek Chicken Marinara ($8.99) was sort-of Greek in that it came with a side Greek salad. The dish featured orzo pasta along with grilled chicken and a zesty marinara with fresh basil.

Zoes does a good amount of to-go business, thanks to online/app ordering and its Fresh Take Tubs To Go ($6.99-$8.99) of everything from hummus to Zoe's spicy pimento cheese. Mediterranean Family Meals of entrees and sides can be customized for three to five people ($29.99) and four to six people ($39.99).

Servers are still learning the ropes, but they're friendly. When a recent to-go order wasn't ready at the exact moment she arrived, the reviewer was offered a complimentary drink in a 32-ounce travel cup ($2.49). Sweet! Almost as sweet as a slice of rich Yaya's Hand-Made Chocolate Cake ($2.29) or a massive house-baked chocolate chunk cookie ($1.99).

But, wait, no baklava at Zoes?

There's always Taziki's.

Weekend on 11/19/2015

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