Grill's rockin' a 'large' menu

The #WPS burger at Nashville Rockin’ Grill in North Little Rock is topped with pulled pork, cheese, bacon, lettuce, onion and tomato and comes with fries.
The #WPS burger at Nashville Rockin’ Grill in North Little Rock is topped with pulled pork, cheese, bacon, lettuce, onion and tomato and comes with fries.

It was a warm sunny day when my mom and I headed out to Nashville Rockin' Grill on Maumelle Boulevard in North Little Rock for a late lunch.

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A sampler platter at Nashville Rockin’ Grill in North Little Rock comes with pulled pork, brisket, catfish, two sides and a tamale (not pictured).

The restaurant is in a strip mall, and we were able to park right in front of the outdoor patio.

Nashville Rockin’ Grill

Address: 10840 Maumelle Blvd., North Little Rock

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday

Cuisine: American

Credit cards: AE, MC, V, D

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes

(501) 812-0095

The interior is attractive, with a down-home style that is carried out with brown walls, booths, tables and chairs, and country knickknacks. At the front of the room is a stage holding two bright yellow pianos and at the back is a bar. The garage-type doors between the interior dining room and the patio can be raised when the weather is nice.

A friendly fellow led us to our seats, handed us menus and took our drink orders. It took only a second to see that they have a large menu, but that's because it's printed on 11-by-17-inch paper, not that it features an extensive list of food. The menu ranges from appetizers and sandwiches to dinners and daily lunch specials.

We ordered fried mushrooms ($7.99), but we could have just as easily chosen cheese sticks ($6.25), fried pickles ($5.50), chili cheese fries ($6.75) or freshly made pork rinds ($2).

We chose the catfish dinner, which comes with hush puppies, slaw and fries. Prices are $9.95 for two pieces, $12.99 for three and $15.95 for four. (Most of the entrees are served with two sides and Texas toast.)

We were intrigued by the idea of Smoked Meatloaf ($7.99), which the menu says is handmade and low-temperature-smoked to perfection. For sides we picked mashed potatoes and gravy, and beans.

After 10 minutes, our server brought out a bright red basket holding about 18 button-size mushrooms that were battered and fried golden brown. We each ate about three and set the others aside. They were crispy outside and juicy inside, the kind of good where you burn your tongue because you can't wait for them to cool.

Our two entrees came out faster than expected. Everything looked delicious, so we set about nibbling. The catfish pieces were a whole filet each, so we split one piece. It was fried golden, not quite crisp, but it had a tender, flaky texture and mild taste we both enjoyed. The fries could have used a little more cooking. The slaw was standard restaurant fare.

Our server brought out a bowl of hush puppies that were the size of large marbles. They didn't seem freshly made and were a bit doughy inside.

The "smoked" meatloaf was a large chunk topped with what seemed to be barbecue sauce. I detected no hint of smoke flavor but it was good. The mashed potatoes were thick and a bit stiff, and the gravy was a standard brown version. My favorite part of the plate was the sweet and smoky beans.

We shared a Pecan Fried Pie ($3.95) since we'd held back from eating all of our entrees. The restaurant also offers peach or chocolate. The pie was small, and the pecans were few and far between, but it did have the recognizable corn syrup flavor.

We noticed Rattlesnake Soup under the sides section of the menu. We asked our server for a sample. The brothy soup had a peppery flavor and small bits of pork. The rattlesnake part comes from the white dumpling in the bowl. It tasted doughy but looked convincingly like a skinned snake.

I made it back a couple of weeks later with my son, sister and nephew in celebration of my nephew's birthday. We decided to try out the patio because the day was a bit cool and the spot was shady. Fans helped circulate the air and it was relaxing.

I ordered the fried pork rinds ($2), which arrived in about 10 minutes. Half of them were delicious, light and airy, and some were as hard as rocks.

About that time a young musician set up in the corner right behind me, and it didn't take long to realize that we would need to move. We relocated to the other end of the patio, where we could enjoy the music and still carry on a conversation.

My nephew ordered the pulled pork meal ($10.95) with slaw and fries, and cleaned his plate. My sister got the chicken-fried steak dinner ($11.99), with potatoes and gravy, and macaroni and cheese. The large breaded steak was fried crisp and topped with white gravy. The steak and gravy had good flavor, but neither was from scratch.

My son and I shared two entrees. I wanted variety so I chose a Rockin' Platter ($14.95), with brisket, pulled pork, catfish, a tamale, two sides and Texas toast. I ordered the barbecue beans, and macaroni and cheese, but I got mashed potatoes and gravy instead of the pasta. And there was no tamale in sight. Our server made everything right.

The shells and cheese were standard, but the pasta was tender and there was a good amount of cheese sauce. We really enjoyed the small tamale, which was topped with chili and shredded cheese. The catfish was crispy, although the pieces were a bit smaller this time around.

The shredded pork was tender and moist, but the brisket was a bit dry. It almost didn't seem like brisket and there was a lack of smoke flavor in both.

We split a #WPS Burger ($10.99), which comes topped with pulled pork, cheddar and bacon on a toasted bun with onion and slaw. We held the slaw. The accompanying fries were crisp. The burger was delicious, and quite a mouthful.

For big eaters, Nashville Rockin' Grill has a deal: Eat a 72-ounce chicken-fried steak, a slice of Texas toast, 8 ounces of coleslaw, a pound of fries and one tamale in 45 minutes and it's free. If you can't eat it, it will cost you $65.

There is music Thursday through Saturday nights, and there are plans to open on Sundays for brunch.

Weekend on 10/08/2015

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