Del Frisco’s beefs up Promenade

Meatloaf for $20?

That was what first struck us about the menu at Del Frisco's Grille, the posh chain outlet that opened last month in the Promenade at Chenal shopping center.

Fine, so it's only $19.50 at dinner and a mere $19 at lunch, listed among the restaurant's "Knife & Fork" selections. But still, for meatloaf? Even if it features wild mushrooms, bordelaise sauce and hand-mashed potatoes?

Specializing in American fare with an emphasis on prime steaks, Del Frisco's Grille is the younger, downscale sibling of sophisticated Texas-based Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House. The Grille's concept from the restaurant group's website: "Taking the classic bar and grill to new heights." And they don't just mean prices. It continues: "Del Frisco's Grille draws inspiration from bold flavors and market-fresh ingredients."

During two recent dinner visits, even though we had made reservations, we still had to wait a few minutes in the busy waiting area for our tables -- once a booth, once a four-top -- to be ready in the tony, lively dining area, past the large, inviting bar serving beer, wine and complicated cocktails.

Each visit, welcoming hostesses in tall black boots greeted us and friendly servers in tall black boots (and usually short skirts) waited on us. We asked a female server if such footwear was required, and she said yes -- boots or heels. We're sure Del Frisco's Grille is striving for a comely staff appearance, though it struck us as uncomfortable and, well, as a friend remarked, "A bit hoochie, especially at lunch."

As Del Frisco's is known for beef, we tried it several different ways our first visit. We began with the Cheesesteak Eggrolls ($11), which were exactly that -- two eggrolls stuffed with steak and cheese, sliced lengthwise and plated with a Sweet & Spicy Chili Sauce and honey mustard. We mean it as a compliment when we say it reminded us of fair food, fancy fair food.

We had to try the meatloaf, which we shared, as well as a Grass Fed Hanger Sliced Steak ($24), served with a signature steak sauce and frites (fries).

The meatloaf, cloaked in the rich mushroomy sauce perched atop mashed potatoes, was perfectly tasty. But it was still meatloaf.

The Grass Fed Hanger Sliced Steak was disappointing. Not only was it practically raw when we ordered it medium-rare, but it was very chewy and we left most of it on our plate. Not being people who return food to the kitchen, we turned our attention to the satisfactory frites -- regular and sweet potato -- and an additional side: the plush, creamy Truffled Mac & Cheese ($8.50).

With room for a shared dessert, we split the Nutella Bread Pudding ($9). It was a sweet ending to the meal, even if the dessert featuring our favorite chocolate hazelnut spread, topped with coffee ice cream, caramel sauce and a dusting of confectioners' sugar, wasn't as life-changing as expected.

Our second dinner, we had not one complaint.

For a starter, we chose one of the restaurant's flatbreads, the Spicy Pork Meatball ($14), the super-size dough base was generously topped with fresh mozzarella, banana peppers and full-size, flavorful meatballs. It's big enough to make a modestly priced meal (or two) all by itself.

Both entrees this meal came from the "Knife & Fork" portion of the menu: the Prime Beef Short Rib Stroganoff ($28) and the Mesquite Smoked Pork Chop ($25).

Unlike traditional stroganoff with bits of sliced beef, Del Frisco's version featured a sizable, tender slab of sour-cream-drizzled beef with a side of saucy pappardelle noodles topped with fried "tobacco" onions. It was the ultimate classy comfort food.

An intense bourbon-apple glaze accented the meaty pork chop as did more fried onions. It was served with mashed potatoes.

At the recommendation of our server, we shared a luscious slice of the Lemon Doberge Cake ($10.50), Del Frisco's six-layer dessert with lemon buttercream icing and lemon glaze. There's a reason it's legendary.

We almost had the place to ourselves during a recent workday lunch. I decided to "Grab a Pair," which means ordering two choices from a sandwich/salad/soup menu ($12). I elected half of a mixed greens salad, and half of a BBQ Pork Bahn Mi sandwich. With pickled daikon radish and carrot, cucumber, cilantro and chiles, the sandwich was interesting, but I wouldn't have wanted more than half.

My friend ordered the Steakhouse Salad ($17.50) with avocado, blue cheese and bacon. Immediately I had salad envy, staring at the nest of greens with large chunks of broiled sliced steak and two truffled deviled egg halves (at least until she gave me one half -- mmm!). The egg, she said, was the best part of the meal that didn't taste as impressive as it looked. While the meat was cooked to a beautiful medium, it was quite chewy; there was very little blue cheese and the salad beneath was swimming in dressing, although it didn't have the lemon-horseradish zing she had her mouth set for.

Those with steeper expense accounts will want to check out the signature steaks ($37-$45), like the 8-ounce filet mignon or 16-ounce rib-eye that comes with choice of potatoes or green beans. A "Surf" section offers selections like ahi tuna and salmon ($28-$30). There are "Two-Fisted Sandwiches" ($13.50-$17) and entree "Big Greens" salads ($11-$18.50). Sides, usually big enough for two to share, cost $6.50-$8.50.

Sunday brunch, with choices that include a Red Velvet Belgian Waffle ($12.50) and Chicken-Fried Steak & Eggs ($16), is served 11 a.m.-3 p.m., along with Build-Your-Own-Bloody-Mary drinks ($7 glass/$19 carafe) served with a plate of fixings.

Weekend on 10/22/2015