NWA dining gems gleam

Chicken and Waffles (front) served with fruit and War Eagle Steel-Cut Oatmeal are on the Sunday brunch menu at Eleven at Crystal Bridges.
Chicken and Waffles (front) served with fruit and War Eagle Steel-Cut Oatmeal are on the Sunday brunch menu at Eleven at Crystal Bridges.

BENTONVILLE -- Bentonville might be the promised land. At least for foodies.

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Tavola Trattoria is a casual Italian bistro in Bentonville.

Or so we theorized as we drove and drooled, losing count of signs for Indian and Thai restaurants on our way to the Northwest Arkansas city's square following the Razorbacks season opener in Fayetteville. Beyond ethnic offerings, the city is home to The Hive, an upscale restaurant on the James Beard Awards radar in the 21c Museum Hotel.

Tavola Trattoria

Address: 108 S.E. A St., Bentonville

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 4-8 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: Italian

Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Reservations: Priority seating available

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: Yes

(479) 715-4738

tavolatrattoria.com

Eleven at Crystal Bridges

Address: 600 Museum Way, Bentonville

Hours: 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday, Wednesday-Saturday for lunch; 5-9 p.m. Wednesday and Friday for dinner; 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sunday for brunch

Cuisine: “Modern American comfort fare”

Credit cards: AE, D, MC, V

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Reservations: Yes, recommended for brunch, dinner

Wheelchair accessible: Yes

Carryout: No

(479) 418-5700

crystalbridges.org/…

But still in Hogs garb, we didn't need anything fancy for dinner. We just wanted something good in the quiet company of grown-ups, away from college crowds, followed by a restful night before a trip to Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, where we'd brunch the next day.

Charming Tavola Trattoria filled that order -- and our bellies -- quite nicely.

Dinner at Tavola Trattoria

Just off the square, Tavola Trattoria is a gem, and not a hidden one. Plenty of locals and tourists have discovered the comfortable, casual spot -- the younger Italian sister of the square's Table Mesa Bistro. There were several larger parties standing and sitting at the few outside tables waiting for seats inside when we arrived.

But our party of two was able to snag an intimate booth in the lively modern dining room immediately to the surprise of our friendly waitress who asked us nervously, "How long did you have to wait?" (Next time, we'd be wise to reserve a table through Tavola's priority seating system on tavolatrattoria.com.)

In addition to a lengthy list of signature drinks ($8-$10) with names like Wedding Cake Martini and Drinking Miss Daisy, Tavola offers a $40 wine list. All bottles are $40, all carafes are $15 and all glasses are $10 (a $10 glass of Earthquake Zinfandel suited me fine). There are also reserved bottles ($50-$135) and beer ($4-$5.75).

Our waitress brought us bread served with a zesty, warm marinara, a welcome change from the standard olive oil with cracked pepper.

Another appetizer probably wasn't necessary, nor advisable, but we were glad we ordered the hearty, saucy beef House Crafted Meatballs ($10.50; turkey is another option), served with yet more bread, from the Antipasti menu.

Tavola's varied menu includes entree plates, pasta, pizza and stromboli, as well as salads and soups. Most of the pastas (gluten-free available) and plates can be served family style, as well as individually -- even the menu's most extravagant offering, La Parisienne Filet ($33 individual/$99 family).

This night we wanted pasta. And we didn't want to share.

The Gnocchi Formaggi ($13/$35), featuring spicy Italian sausage in a parmesan cream sauce, was a plush pleasure, though a rich one. I regretted that I'd never have an opportunity to finish the leftovers stashed in the hotel fridge.

My dining companion praised the Pasta Pomodoro -- angel hair with a garlicky pomodoro sauce, basil and Parmigiano-Reggiano -- which he ordered with chicken ($11/$30).

Too full to sample dessert, we passed on options such as the Poached Chianti Pear ($8) and Desiree's Cake, soaked in mascarpone cream, finished with Frangelico cream and Nutella ($8.50).

Brunch at Eleven at Crystal Bridges

Would-be brunchers at Eleven at Crystal Bridges, heed our advice: Make advance reservations. Don't wait until after you've seen the Andy Warhol and Jamie Wyeth exhibits (up through Oct. 5) to make dining plans.

We arrived shortly after the museum opened at 10 a.m. Fortunately, we talked to the information desk about our brunch intentions and were directed to make reservations. We snagged a 1:30 p.m. reservation; brunch is served until 2:30 p.m. (For those who don't make reservations, or just want a quicker option, nibbles are available at Coffee at Eleven.)

Most people didn't know to reserve a table, judging by the long line of people at the host stand that is positioned under a bold work of art -- Jeff Koons' shiny gold Hanging Heart, which measures 9 1/2 feet wide. We were able to bypass the line and be seated in the breathtaking, contemporary, glass-enclosed dining space that overlooks ponds.

As one might expect from a world-class museum, the brunch entrees are vivid visual works of art with ingredients locally sourced from businesses such as Forester Farmer's Market Poultry in Rogers and the Bentonville Farmers Market. Yet, they're less fussy than one might expect.

Chicken and Waffles ($12.50)? At Crystal Bridges? Yes. But not just any chicken and waffles: Southern-fried local chicken breast, secured with a strawberry-topped skewer to a Belgian waffle, served with a kicky jalapeno-infused Vermont maple syrup. The plate was rounded out by colorful fruit and a berry yogurt dipping sauce.

Also luscious and lovely was the Eggs Benedict ($11), featuring over-easy poached eggs and Boar's Head ham, asparagus, a roasted red pepper coulis and hollandaise over toasted English muffins, also served with fruit and a berry yogurt dipping sauce. Our only complaint was that the asparagus spears were a bit tough.

While oatmeal isn't usually something to get excited about, Eleven's War Eagle Steel-Cut Oatmeal ($7.50), served with caramelized apples, Vermont maple syrup, whipped butter, fresh strawberries and toasted walnuts, was an exception. We shared this instead of a dessert.

Beyond breakfast fare, which can also be ordered a la carte (from $2 for an English muffin with jam to $3.50 for poached eggs), Eleven's brunch includes sandwiches, like the Smoked Trout Club ($11.50), quiche, Blackened Shrimp Tacos ($11), salads and soup.

Wine and brunchy cocktails are an option for those who don't have a three-hour drive home. A great workout to walk off some of the calories is a stroll along Crystal Bridges' inviting grounds and trails.

Weekend on 09/17/2015

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