Grilled skirt steak's a star in the beef parade

Skirt Steak With Beer-Braised Black Beans and Corn Salsa
Skirt Steak With Beer-Braised Black Beans and Corn Salsa

If you ask a chef what his or her favorite steak is, chances are the answer will be rich, beefy skirt steak.

Skirt steak is often associated with Tex-Mex tacos and fajitas, but I grill it year round and pair it with everything. It is prized for its flavor, but must be cut against the grain of the meat or it is hard to chew. Many people marinate the skirt steak, but I like to grill it over a medium-high heat, about 550 degrees, seasoned with nothing but olive oil and kosher salt so that I taste all of the natural beef flavor.

Each cow has two skirts of steak -- the inside and the outside, which is the most flavorful. Most grocery stores simply label their skirt steak, "skirt" but if you can find a butcher who offers both, be sure to ask for the outside skirt.

This recipe is a nod to skirt steak's humble roots. The simple tomato and corn salsa cuts the richness of the beef and adds a freshness to the dish. The beer-braised black beans are coarsely mashed with onion and garlic and doused with fresh lime juice just before serving. And the tortillas are optional.

You can grill the steak and the corn together and assemble the salsa while the meat is resting. Make the beans before you start the salsa and the steak, or the steak will get cold while the beans finish cooking.

Grilled Skirt Steak, Beer-Braised Black Beans and Blistered Corn and Tomato Salsa

Beer-Braised Black Beans:

Olive oil

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 small white onion, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed and drained

1 (12-ounce) lager

Juice of one lime

Zest of one lime

Chopped fresh cilantro to taste, about 2 tablespoons

Blistered Corn and Tomato Salsa:

2 large ripe garden tomatoes, or one pint grape or cherry tomatoes

2 ears of corn, shucked

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, plus sprigs for garnish

Juice of one lime

Kosher salt

Steak:

1 pound skirt steak

Kosher salt

Olive oil

For the beans: About 45 minutes before you want to eat, heat about two tablespoons of oil in a heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic, onions and cumin. Saute until onions begin to brown. Add beans and beer to sauteed vegetables and cook 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Coarsely mash beans with the back of a fork. Continue simmering until thick, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Keep warm while you grill the meat and make the salsa. Just before serving, season to taste with lime juice, salt and pepper. Transfer mixture to a bowl. Sprinkle with lime zest and cilantro.

Heat grill with all burners on high and reduce heat to a medium-high direct heat.

For the salsa: Brush corn with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Place corn directly on the cooking grates and grill 3 to 4 minutes. Turn corn occasionally to roast and blister all sides. Remove from grill to a clean platter.

When the corn is cool enough to handle, remove the corn from the cob by standing the cob on end and running a sharp knife down the cob to remove the kernels.

Chop the tomatoes into halves or quarters, depending on the size, making sure to reserve all juices. Put tomatoes and juices into a large glass bowl and set aside. Cut blistered corn and add it to the tomatoes, add lime juice a little at a time, tasting and adding until you think the balance of the tomato juice with the lime is right -- basically it should taste good without too much of a citrus flavor. Season with salt, stir and toss in the chopped cilantro. Let sit, covered, out of the refrigerator until ready to serve. Do not make too far in advance or you will lose the flavors of the fresh-cut tomatoes.

For the steak: Brush steak with olive oil and season steak with about 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt just before placing on the grill.

Place meat directly on the cooking grates and grill 3 to 4 minutes. Turn steak once halfway through the cooking time. Grill a total of 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare meat. Remove from grill to a clean platter and let rest 5 to 7 minutes before carving across the grain. Serve with the braised black beans and the salsa.

Makes 4 servings.

Food on 08/31/2016

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