Jimmy's menu deserves a hand

Jimmy's Serious Sandwiches is serious about sandwiches ... very serious.

Need proof? Well, the popular Little Rock restaurant, a pioneer of fast casual dining, has been making great sandwiches for more than three decades. Jimmy Weisman set up Jimmy's in 1984.

Need more? The best proof is in the eating.

One of the eatery's best qualities lies in the variety of choices among its 14 different sandwiches. The basics one expects -- Chicken Salad ($8.05), Tuna Salad ($8.05) and variations of turkey and club sandwiches -- are here, but are hardly basic in their execution. A reserved approach to the use of mayonnaise in tuna and chicken salad is especially appreciated.

But the real pleasure of Jimmy's is exploring the options.

A Chili-Rubbed Salmon ($9.50), served on flatbread with black beans, mixed vegetables, lettuce and a mild jalapeno dressing, helped warm up a recent chilly evening. The salmon was mildly spiced, and corn and black beans added a welcome texture and sweetness to contrast with the moist, tender cubes of fish.

All sandwiches are served with the choice of one side dish -- soup (two served daily), twice baked potato, potato salad, pasta salad, chips and fruit salad. On this visit, I sampled the tomato barley soup. The hearty soup, also with carrots, mushrooms and onions, radiated a much-needed comfort and warmth with its well-balanced, if a bit underseasoned, flavors. You may want to shake in some pepper.

My companion cheered My Hero ($8.05), a hoagie roll stuffed with ham, turkey, strip steak and provolone cheese with tomato and lettuce. Potato salad (with mustard) was tender and chunky.

Other imaginative options include Pork Loin & Swiss ($8.25), served on cinnamon raisin bread with lettuce and tomato; Thai-1-On! ($8.05), spicy chicken breast with bok choy, carrots, cilantro and lettuce with fresh lime dressing on wheat or low-cal bread; Not Yo Mama's Meatloaf Sandwich ($8.25), served on brioche with lettuce and tomato; and Club Mex ($8.05), a smoked turkey, bacon, pepper cheese sandwich on pumpernickel bread or a hoagie roll, with tomato and lettuce.

On a second visit, I had one of my longtime favorites -- The Garden ($8.25). That vegetarian sandwich, created by Weisman at one of his previous restaurants, is part of the city's foodie lore. It won a national contest in the late '70s for best sandwich. Served on pumpernickel bread, the ingredients include Swiss, cheddar and provolone cheeses,mushrooms, sunflower seeds and spinach pate. The earthiness of the spinach, the buttery sweetness of the cheeses, the heft of the pumpernickel and the crunch of the sunflower seeds make this a richly satisfying choice. Fresh fruit salad as a side proved to be a perfect complement.

My companion chose the N.Y. Strip ($9.50) sandwich, served medium rare on a hoagie roll with lettuce, tomato and a house spread. The beef was thinly sliced, tender and very flavorful.

Not in the mood for a sandwich? Jimmy's also has four entree salads, including a Thai Salad ($6.25) with spicy chicken breast, bok choy, carrots and cilantro over lettuces. A Chili-Rubbed Salmon Salad ($9.50) includes mixed vegetables, black beans and lettuces and is served with a mild jalapeno dressing. There's also a Chicken Caesar ($8.25) and Turkey & Three Cheese Salad ($8.05).

Diners might also choose a Chicken Salad Plate, Tuna Salad Plate, Roasted Chicken Strips or a Hummus Plate, all with the choice of two sides (all are $8.05). Kids Meals ($4) offer a choice of toasted cheese, hot dog, mini ham or mini turkey sandwich with one side, milk or soft drink and a chocolate chip cookie. Beverages include fountain sodas, fresh-brewed iced tea, bottled water and sodas and a no-caffeine cranberry/raspberry iced tea.

Now, this is all well and good, but what about dessert?

Jimmy's has four homemade options, all priced at $1.60. We sampled two.

Chocolate lovers should find their craving sated with Jimmy's rich, flavor-packed brownie. It tastes homemade; sweet but not too sweet. The lemon bar deftly balances sweet and tart, with the lemon coming on strong. (Too often lemon bars are more sweet than lemony; Jimmy's gets it right.) Other choices include a pecan square that was hard to resist and a large chocolate chip cookie.

The restaurant is usually packed on weekday lunches, but the staff is pretty efficient and the wait usually isn't too long. Time can be saved by faxing in a to-go order -- (501) 671-6200. The decor has a relaxed, subdued fast-food-like vibe. Orders are brought to your table.

Jimmy's Serious Sandwiches has been around for a while. If it has been a while since you've been -- or if you haven't been -- there's no time like the present. Seriously.

Weekend on 12/22/2016