Last year, much of the Midwest and Eastern U.S. endured snowstorm after snowstorm. Right now, where I live in Southern California, we’re in the grip of what meteorologists have been saying may be the biggest El Nino rain system ever.
Yes, winter can feel like a burden. But I like to think of it in much more optimistic terms: It’s perfect soup season. Whether you’re facing a day of snow, rain or simply cooler-than-normal temperatures, a bowl of soup can sooth and nourish you.
I like to imagine people a century ago, or longer, with big kettles of soup murmuring by the fire. A favorite recipe might have simmered for hours, and the act of cooking it alone could have been as warming as the soup itself.
Today’s cooks live in very different circumstances, of course. Central heating reduces or eliminates the practical purpose of gathering around the fire. And everyone seems to be living a busier life, often shying away from recipes that seem to take too long to cook.
But I have striven to share with home cooks my own secrets about how to make great-tasting food quickly and easily. And one of the best ways I know for preparing wonderful soups quickly is to use a pressure cooker.
Today’s electric pressure cookers are models of safety and reliability, with secure lids and easy-to-set timers that automatically start counting down to a set cooking time once pressure has been reached. That makes it easier than ever to enjoy the benefits of this method, which dramatically reduces cooking times while concentrating flavor.
You’ll see what I mean when you try a new take on one of my winter favorites. A pureed soup of butternut squash, bright with the fresh orange and ginger, takes only 10 minutes to cook once pressure has been reached. That allows just enough time to make a quick cranberry relish to garnish each bowl.
But that’s not the end of the ease that inexpensive modern appliances bring to this recipe. I also like to puree the just-cooked soup right inside the pressure cooker using a hand-held immersion blender. That’s the perfect combination of convenience and great flavor any home cook would want — especially in the depths of winter.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP
Serves 6 to 8
Ingredients:
1 large butternut squash, about 2 pounds, halved, seeded, peeled and cut into large chunks
1 large yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 piece fresh ginger, about 2 inches, peeled and thinly sliced
2 or 3 large oranges (1 zested), juiced to make 1 cup
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
2 tablespoons honey
2 cups organic chicken broth or low-sodium vegetable broth
1/4 cup heavy cream, plus extra for garnish (optional)
Small sprigs fresh Italian parsley, for garnish
CRANBERRY-SPICE RELISH
Ingredients:
3/4 pound fresh or frozen whole cranberries
1/2 cup light-brown sugar
Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
Directions:
In a pressure cooker, combine the squash chunks, chopped onion, ginger, orange zest and juice, rosemary, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoon of honey and stock. If you like, add the cream. Secure the lid on the pressure cooker, seal, bring to pressure, and cook under pressure for 10 minutes.
While the soup comes to pressure and cooks, make the cranberry-spice relish. In a heavy medium saucepan, combine the cranberries and sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar softens, about 3 minutes. Cover and continue cooking until the cranberries pop and turn tender, about 10 minutes longer, seasoning to taste with salt. Stir in the cinnamon and cardamom, cover, and cook until thick, about 5 minutes longer, stirring occasionally.
Turn back to the soup, and quick-release the pressure from the pressure cooker. With tongs, remove the rosemary sprig, and discard. With an immersion blender, blend the soup inside the pressure cooker. Taste, adjust the seasonings with salt, and stir in 1 tablespoon honey to enhance the sweetness.
To serve the soup, ladle it directly from the pressure cooker into heated bowls. Place a spoonful of cranberry relish into the center of each bowl. (You can reserve leftover relish for another use.) Drizzle the soup lightly with some cream, if you like, garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.