IN THE GARDEN

Arkansas Democrat-Gazette Plant illustration
Arkansas Democrat-Gazette Plant illustration

Q I have two lace-cap hydran-geas I planted about 10 years ago in Fayetteville. They had beautiful pink flowers on them when I purchased and planted them. They are in dappled sunlight with little direct sunlight, but not in heavy shade. My problem is that these have grown and are lovely healthy bushes but never have bloomed again. I have figured out that they bloom on old wood. In the spring they come up from the ground around the old wood but the old wood almost has no leaves on it, and late frosts kill what is there so those old wood sticks die with the frost. At that point I cut them off. With the light winter the sticks had more leaves and buds on them than usual, so I did not cut them down. Most got blitzed in a late frost but one did produce a sad little bloom. So the question is how do I keep the old wood with the blooms on it from getting frozen? Should I just be happy to have some green shrubs and forget it, or dig them up and throw them away and try again with another hydrangea?

photo

Special to the Democrat-Gazette

Euonymus is a favorite host for scale insects.

A I have decided that life is too short to live with bad plants, and one sad bloom in 10 years is grounds for removal. Northwest Arkansas has more of a challenge than central and southern Arkansas when it comes to blooms on the big-leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), but this was a great year for hydrangeas in most of the state, so you need a new plant. I recommend one of the Hydrangea paniculata varieties that bloom on new growth so it doesn't matter how cold our winters get or whether a late frost occurs. "Limelight" is a great older variety, but there are many to choose from. They will take more sun, too. You can also try one of the Hydrangea arborescens, or smooth hydrangeas, such as "Incrediball," which also bloom on the new growth. Dig up your lacecaps and give them to a friend in southern Arkansas.

Q I recently reduced two 10-foot-tall bushes down to about 6 feet. One is a yaupon holly and the other predominantly privet. I know it might have been better done two months ago, but tell me if you think I'm still OK having done my trim before the technical beginning of summer. Both bushes were very healthy. I essentially took them both down to their 2010 height. I have increased their water a bit and applied Osmocote liberally.

A I would hope the privet would die, but unfortunately that probably will not be the case. Privet is one of our most invasive plants, and I would love to eradicate it. Luckily for you, yaupons are pretty tough plants too. Normally, when we do severe pruning, we like to get it done in early spring to allow time for the plants to recover before hot, dry weather hits, which slows down new growth. I would keep watering while it is dry to help them recover, but I think you should be OK. One application of fertilizer is all you need -- and I prefer to go on the light side, versus the heavy side, especially when it is as hot as it is.

Q Can you help identify the pests in this photo?

A You have an impressive case of scale insects on your euonymus. Euonymus is quite prone to scale insects. If you want to keep the plant, cut it back by a third now and dispose of the parts you are removing. Then use a systemic insecticide containing imidacloprid (Merit or Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub insecticide).

Q I live in Morrilton, and I planted a Japanese maple in April in memory of my husband, who passed away April 16. Its leaves have turned brown and have shriveled up and are dry like it's dead, but there is still some green to the branches when I break them off. I water daily now. I was watering about every three days at first. What am I doing wrong and what do I need to do to save it? Also, I want to buy an eastern redbud and a dogwood that are on sale for $1, but it says to plant in spring. Can I plant them now and will they live?

A How much sun does the Japanese maple get? It does not sound promising if most of the leaves have died, but see if new growth comes out. New trees will need frequent watering to get the roots established, but make sure the site is well-drained. They don't like standing water. You can plant trees year-round, but it makes the job tougher when it is as hot and dry out as it is now. Water, water, water is the key -- no fertilizer until the roots get established. I would wait until next spring to fertilize if you plant now. Dogwoods are like Japanese maples and would prefer morning sun and afternoon shade or filtered sunlight. Redbuds thrive in full sun.

Janet B. Carson is a horticulture specialist for the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Write to her at 2301 S. University Ave., Little Rock, Ark. 72204 or email her at

jcarson@arkansasonline.com

HomeStyle on 07/02/2016

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