Cooking for two

Pasta warms up to fresh mozzarella

Pappardelle With Mozzarella, Grilled Peppers and Olives
Pappardelle With Mozzarella, Grilled Peppers and Olives

Classic Mediterranean flavors and colors fly here; you've probably made some version of this dish without a recipe. The anchovies provide an unmistakable piquant note, but feel free to leave them out. What's important is having the mozzarella ready to toss in as soon as the cooked pasta hits the bowl, so the cheese can melt just a bit.

If you're making your own fresh bread crumbs, 2 slices of crust-on bread should yield the right amount. We tested this with little balls of mozzarella as well; they don't insinuate themselves (read: soften) as well as the pieces of mozzarella you prep yourself. But they'll save you a few minutes.

Serve with grilled asparagus or just a glass of a dry rose.

Pappardelle With Mozzarella, Grilled Peppers and Olives

Kosher salt

6 ounces dried pappardelle or other wide pasta

3 or 4 jarred, roasted red and yellow bell peppers

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling

1 tablespoon capers

2 anchovy filets, optional

Leaves from 4 stems flat-leaf parsley

1/2 lemon

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

6 tablespoons fresh plain bread crumbs (may substitute cornbread crumbs)

8 ounces fresh mozzarella, drained

Handful pitted black olives

Bring a pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add a generous pinch of salt and then the pasta; cook according to the package directions.

Meanwhile, place a grill pan over medium-high heat. Rinse the peppers under cool running water, then cut them into thin strips. Drizzle with a tablespoon of the oil, then add to the pan and cook for a few minutes until sizzling and a few more char marks have appeared. Transfer to a heat-safe bowl, along with any pan juices.

Rinse the capers and the anchovies, if using; add to the bowl, mashing the latter slightly with your fingers as you work. Chop the parsley leaves and add to the bowl, along with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Squeeze in the juice of the 1/2 lemon. Use a fork to whisk vigorously, then season generously with pepper.

Melt the butter in a separate small skillet over medium heat. Stir in the bread crumbs until well coated; cook for a few minutes, just until golden brown. Cut the mozzarella into smallish bite-size chunks and reserve. Cut the olives into thin slices; add to the bowl.

Drain the pasta and add to the bowl, then immediately add the mozzarella; toss to incorporate. Divide between individual wide, shallow bowls. Top each portion with the toasted bread crumbs, then drizzle with a little more oil. Serve warm.

Makes 2 to 3 servings.

Recipe adapted from The 30-Minute Cook by Nigel Slater (Penguin Books, reset edition 2006)

Food on 06/15/2016

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